Page 101 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

CHAPTER 9

Joining Knots
(Bends)

t is not uncommon to join the ends of ropes, cords,
I or webbing. If the rope ends being joined are
within 1 mm of each other’s diameter, the applica-
tion heuristic really hinges on one key question: Is the
union permanent or temporary? If the joining knot is
permanent, climbers should seek the strongest, most
secure knot available, one that is easily recognizable,
with a predictable failure mechanism. If the joining
knot is temporary, then it might be worth consider-
ing the efficiency of the knot. Some joining knots are
so difficult to untie after being loaded that climbers
should rightfully consider a knot that is simply strong
and secure enough to sustain all the potential loads
applied to it.

Double Fisherman’s

The double fisherman’s is one of the strongest and
most secure joining knots available to rock climbers.
When tied correctly, its four parallel loops and crossing
strands are also unmistakable. At high loads the knot
tends to break right in front of the first loop. However,
the double fisherman’s has to be meticulously tied to
get it just right, and after modest loads (like a rappel-
ling body weight) it can be arduous and time consum-
ing to untie.

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