Page 105 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Water Knot

Many climbers still insist on using 1-inch tubular
nylon webbing to construct shoulder-length and
double- length slings. There is an obvious incentive to
do so because these kinds of slings are much cheaper
than a manufactured sling. Of course, the trade-off
is that climbers will have to select a joining knot to
make the slings. They will have to tie the joining knot
correctly and inspect the knot every time it is used.
The mandatory diligence required by these knots
often makes the price point on a manufactured sling
more attractive.
Nevertheless, the water knot is still a part of
climbing culture, and it is encountered so regularly in
climbing circles, old and young, that it bears mention-
ing. The water knot is a strong knot, and the pattern
of tying one overhand knot in one end of the web-
bing, then retracing that knot with the other end in
the opposite direction, is easy to remember and recog-
nize. As long as the tails of the water knot are at least
2 inches long, it tends break right in front of the first
loop under high loads. But the smooth, flat webbing
and the nature of slings being crammed in and out
of backpacks and stuff sacks means that water knots
can slowly loosen or open. Water knots are notori-
ously insecure in this way, so they should be carefully
inspected before each and every use.

92 CLIMBING: KNOTS