Page 126 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 126

Traditional Mule Knot on a Plate/
             Aperture/Tuber Belay Device

             Traditionally the mule knot has been tied in this
             configuration and backed up with an overhand on
             a bight. This method avoids using the spine of the
             attachment carabiner. Some find the traditional method
             cumbersome to tie, difficult to reduce in a precise
             manner, or difficult to maintain the brake strand/avoid
             slippage. An HMS or pear-shaped locking carabiner,
             while still recommended, is not required for this
             application. This may be the best indication of when to
             use this version.


























                              Traditionally the mule knot
                              has been tied such that all the
                              tying is done above the belay
                              device after an initial pass back
                              through the carabiner.


                  Knots Conspicuously Missing from This Book   113
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