Page 124 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

why rope manufacturers, like Petzl, recommend the
overhand on a bight for these applications: It’s more
familiar, more secure, and provides a nice flat edge to
ram into a belay or rappel system. Nevertheless, the
stopper knot is a favorite for many climbers.

Bunny Eared Eight and the
Bowline on a Bight

The bunny eared eight and the bowline on a bight
are commonly mistaken for materially redundant knot
configurations, like the BHK. However, they both
default to a single point of failure, a single strand that
girth hitches the entire knot. If this single strand were
to be compromised, all the loops in the knot would
be compromised too. Many climbers learn to rely
on these two knots to affix a rope to a pair of strong
components, like bolts. In this application and others,
redundancy is not even a goal, so the nonredundant
makes sense. Futhermore, that single strand that girth

The bunny eared eight is not a redundant knot, but
it can be used to connect a rope to two separate
carabiners.
Knots Conspicuously Missing from This Book 111