Page 119 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 119
Most Common Applications Attaching a rope to carabiner when adjustability is more important than strength. Belaying or a releasable attachment (when combined with a mule knot). Closing the Munter hitch to liberate brak
Security Carabiner use affects security. Use HMS or pear-shaped carabiners. Carabiner use affects security. Use HMS or pear-shaped carabiners. Two gestures of the rope destabilize the knot. Two gestures of the rop
Efficiency Quick to tie and untie. Quick to tie and untie. Tricky to tie, but easy to untie. Tricky to tie, but easy to untie.
Strength Has been demonstrated to slip at less than 75% of material strength. Relative to the grip strength of the user. Defaults to the strength of the overhand knot. Defaults to the strength of the overhand kn
Notes on Visual Clarity Anchoring and Belaying Hitches Biting loop captures load strand and standing end. Biting loop captures load strand and brake hand holds standing end. Visually confusing. Visually confusing.
Knot or Hitch Clove hitch Munter hitch Mule knot (Munter) Mule knot (belay device)