Page 117 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 117
Most Common Applications Grabbing a rope when reliable and optimal gripping power are important. Grabbing a rope when efficiency and nominal gripping power are important. Tying a friction hitch with a sling.
Security Holding power can be compromised by poor dressing. Dressing, material, and circumstance affect holding power. Holding power can be compromised by poor dressing.
Efficiency Can be tedious to dress perfectly. Quick to tie, quick to untie. Tedious to tie and requires routine inspection.
Strength Defaults to strength of joining knot. Behaves erratically: sometimes grips tight, sometimes slips at lower loads. Defaults to strength of joining knot or bar-tack.
Notes on Visual Clarity Six parallel laps with bridge, one connection loop. 6-8 parallel wraps, two connection loops. Nose is shorter than wraps and points toward the load.
Knot or Hitch Friction Hitches Prusik Autoblock Kleimheist
