Page 118 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 118

Joining two rope ends in a   permanent way.  Joining two rope ends in   a temporary way where   strength and security are   less important: rappelling.  Joining flat webbing.











                   Two gestures of   the rope destabilize   the bend.  Catastrophic   capsizing is   only possible if   flat overhand is   proximal to rope   ends.  One gesture of   the tails can   destabilize the knot.






                   Tedious to tie and   difficult to untie   after being loaded.  Quick to tie and   quick to untie, even   after loading.  Tedious to tie and   requires routine   inspection.







                   Retains 80-90% of   material strength.  With some ropes,   capsizing is   possible at less   than 75% of the   material strength.  Retains 80-90% of   material strength.







               Joining Knots and Bends  Signature side-by-side   Double   interlocking Xs and   fisherman’s  2-inch tails.  Same appearance as   Flat overhand  overhand, but loaded   on the flat side it   splits the knot; 10-12   inch tails.  A
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