Page 207 - Bonhams Asian Art May2016 UK

501 Property from Mr. and Mrs. C. Lefebvre Collection of Chinese Robes
A BLUE-GROUND MANCHU MAN’S ‘DRAGON’ SEMIFORMAL
SUMMER ROBE, JIFU In his Ruling From the Dragon Throne, Costume of the Qing Dynasty
19th century (1644-1911), John Vollmer points out the deep symbolical meaning
The blue gauze embroidered in light grey with nine writhing dragons underlying the design of the semi-formal court robe, belied by its very
amongst lingzhi-shaped clouds and Buddhist symbols, all above a name, jifu, literally meaning ‘auspicious attire or coat’, a reference to a
lishui band supporting tumultuous waves interspersed with lingzhi and name present in the Zhouli.
ratnas.
128.5cm (50 3/4in) long The arrangement of nine dragons radiating from the neck openings to
the shoulders, chest and back, with a further dragon hidden under the
£2,000 - 3,000 flap, is a reference to the ancient and centrally controlled land division
CNY18,000 - 28,000 called jingtian (well), which was envisioned by Confucian philosophers
HK$22,000 - 33,000 as the most equitable one. The design, however, also functions as a
schematic diagram of the universe, with the lishui band representing
the universal ocean surrounding the universe, breaking against the
prism-shaped rocks representing the Earth mountain and placed at the
four axis of the coat, all below the constellations and clouds in which
the dragons, symbol of Royal authority, coil and twist. The symbolism
can however only be completed when worn, as the human body
becomes the axis around which the robe-world revolves. J. Vollmer,
Ruling From the Dragon Throne, Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-
1911), Berkeley/Toronto: 2002, p. 106-108.

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