Page 191 - Barbara Merry - The Splicing Handbook
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The Lizard not only looks better and works better, some consider it the perfect
               solution for tricky problems in the fairlead and lashing department. It also has
               the honorable pedigree that classic boat folks like.
                  Simply defined (by Gershom Bradford in The Mariner’s Dictionary), a Lizard

               is  “a  piece  of  rope  with  a  thimble  or  a  bull’s  eye  spliced  in  one  end.”  Some
               sailors  call  it  a  strop,  while  others  call  it  a  pendant  (and  yet  pronounce  them
               “pennants”). How the term lizard came into it, I haven’t yet found out.
                  Historically,  Lizards  have  been  used  to  steady  a  line  or  to  give  a  sheet  a
               change  of  direction.  When  used  as  a  temporary  expedient,  they  were  tightly
               lashed in place. As a more permanent fixture, one end or eye was often large
               enough to fit around the mast. Small Lizards were used on the fittings of iron
               works or tied to the shroud to control a halyard. The British, never lacking in
               nautical imagination, sometimes called Lizards “jewel blocks.” Bradford notes
               that jewel blocks and halyards in combination served the “lugubrious purpose”
               of reeving the rope by which men were hanged on naval ships.

                  In  that  golden  age,  Lizards  were  made  with  quality  hemp  cordage,  as  wire
               didn’t make its debut until the middle of the nineteenth century. Here, I provide
               instructions for making a stainless-steel Lizard.



                                               TOOLS & MATERIALS


                                      4 feet (1.2 m) of 7 × 19 stainless steel wire
                                      7-inch (175 mm) parrot-beak wire cutters
                                            Tarred electrical or friction tape
                                          40 feet (12.2 m) of #18 tarred nylon
                                                        Bench vise
                                             Marlinspike (for this size wire
                                                   a small awl will do)
                                                 Sharp knife or scissors
                                                Felt-tipped marking pen
                                                        Vinyl tape
                                                   Gel-type superglue
                                                      Safety glasses



                  Mark a spot 1 foot (300 mm) from one end of the stainless steel wire. (We’ll
               call this section of wire the standing part.) Apply service this way: Starting at the
               1-foot (300 mm) mark and continuing to about 6 inches (150 mm) from the other
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