Page 102 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
ITALIAN

OTTO E MEZZO PAPER MOON SABATINI
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Shop 202, Landmark Alexandra, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong Shop OTE 301, Level 3, Ocean 3/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody
TEL: +852 2537 8859 Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
www.ottoemezzobombana.com Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2733 2000
TEL: +852 2156 2256 www.rghk.com.hk
Umberto Bombana is a true stalwart on the Hong Kong dining scene, who www.papermoonhk.com
has established his influence with an unfaltering commitment to promoting The original Sabatini opened
Italian cuisine. The undisputed “king of white truffles” was recently Located at the new dining wing in Rome back in 1954—and the
honoured with the Order of Merit from the Italian Republic (OMRI, Ordine al at Harbour City, this celebrated Hong Kong outpost in The Royal
Merito della Repubblica Italiana), an accolade gven over to those who have concept from Milan recently Garden does its heritage proud.
distinguished themselves in the realm of literature, arts, economy or public took over a gorgeous space set Its inviting country manor-
service. Bombana has contributed, most certainly, to the enrichment of our alongside the panoramic view style setting is utterly charming,
culinary landscape with thoughtful dishes that highlight the very essence of Victoria Harbour. Wrapping transporting you straight to rural
of beautiful ingredients; indeed, the chef often speaks of fine produce around the end corner of the Italy, an ambience made all the
as worthy of utmost respect. The pastas here, are truly some of the best dining section of the arcade, Paper more enchanting with live band
in town, perfectly al dente and imbued with astonishing flavour; a prime Moon’s interior is embellished performances throughout the
example is the homemade cavatelli with shellfish ragout and sea urchin, each with vintage film stills, displayed evening. Whilst the menu pops
chewy nub of handcrafted pasta redolent of the sea. It’s worth noting that the across from spacious banquette with premium ingredients like
adjoining bar is worthy of your time, too; arrive 45 minutes to an hour ahead seating along the length of the wagyu beef, Boston Maine lobster
to enjoy a pre-dinner Negroni. restaurant. As a casual mid- and Oscietra caviar, it has the full-
range Italian restaurant in a high- bodied flavours to back it up—
traffic arcade, Paper Moon’s menu as showcased by dishes such as
showcases thin-crust pizza as well the mezze maniche, which boasts
as homemade pastas and meatier supremely tender braised oxtail,
mains for sharing. The numerous perfectly al dente pasta and an
pizzas on offer are freshly made umami-rich tomato sauce. Starters
with crisp crust and a generous and secondi are equally impressive,
toppings, but here it’s the pastas such as the deluxe cured ham
that reign supreme. Homemade with melon which is a classic salty-
pappardelle Paper Moon sweet combination enhanced by
showcases a smoky pancetta premium ingredients. The dessert
sauce, while spaghetti with clams trolley is another highlight (be sure
are refreshing with fresh shellfish to save room for their signature
and a touch of white wine and St. Honoré cake) meaning you’re
citrus zing. The wine list comprises likely to leave Sabatini satisfied
of more than 90% Italian regional and stuffed on all fronts. The wine
labels, and the service team is list covers a spread of serving
friendly and enthusiastic in offering sizes, price and region, with Italy
help, with occasional hiccup and well represented as expected;
better understanding of menu service is warm and knowledgeable,
preferred. Paper Moon is an ideal and recommendations given
Sabatini’s old spot for early evening gathering with ease. With its unique blend
world charm works light bites and drinks at the terrace, of sophisticated cuisine and
a treat overlooking the sun setting and the captivating ambience, Sabatini
city coming to life when night falls. really does feel like a one-of-a-kind.

SPIGA TOSCA

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3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queens Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre,
TEL: +852 2871 0055 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
www.diningconcepts.com/spiga TEL: +852 2263 2270
www.ritzcarlton.com
There’s an oft-held misconception that for Italian cuisine to be considered
authentic, it should be casually slapped up in hearty portions by an apron- There is little to fault at Tosca, from the spectacular near-bird’s-eye views
clad nonna. You’ll find none of that at Spiga. Instead, the handsome Central over Victoria Harbour that diners are afforded by virtue of its location on
eatery kitted out by Hong Kong designer Joyce Wang draws inspiration from the 102nd floor of The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong in ICC, the SAR’s tallest
the drama of vintage Italian cinema, with equally elegant servings of food. building, to chef Pino Lavarra’s considered and creative Italian cuisine.
The first full-fledged Hong Kong restaurant by celebrity chef Enrico Bartolini Everything staff recommend is excellent—the sea bass “acqua pazza” in
proffers Italian staples such as osso bucco and vitello tonnato alongside particular is outstanding for its refined and fresh rendering. For savoury
original Bartolini creations that deliciously marry regional flavours. A case instead of sweet to end, the Italian cheese selection does not disappoint.
in point is the restaurant’s best-selling risotto alla Parmiagiana, which is Service is impeccable. The wine list is extensive, with the wine-by-the-glass
presented as an artist’s palette of deep, rich squid ink sauce (a Venetian menu deserving a special mention for an exceptional Sommelier’s
influence), garlicky Genovese pesto and generous dollops of parmesan Selection. Show an interest in what to drink and diners are
cheese from Central Italy that you have to gingerly spoon together for a rewarded with an enthusiasm and sharing of knowledge that
different taste with every mouthful. Round out your meal with a broad all sommeliers should aspire to provide. For a dining
selection of Italian wines organised by region, and a curated list of treasured experience that goes above and beyond, and one that
global pours. will stay with you, you can’t go wrong here.

100 | T .DINING 2018