Page 105 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition
P. 105

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
                                                          JA PA N E S E



                                                                                                SHIRO
                                                                                                                      6
                                                                                                        6
                                                                                                   6
                                                                                                             6
                                                                                                LG1, Two Pacific Place, 88
                                                                                                Queensway, Admiralty, Hong  Kong
                                                                                                TEL: +852 2117 9481
                                                                                                www.shiro-sushi.com

                                                                                                While perhaps not the most
                                                                                                exciting of locations (housed
                                                                                                within the supermarket in the belly
                                                                                                of Pacific Place), Shiro remains
                                                                                                a popular spot for a quick and
                                                                                                simple sushi meal or a bowl of
                                                                                                ramen. The pristine white interiors
                                                                                                hint at the contemporary route
                                                                                                that the restaurant tends to
                                                                                                take when it comes to the food,
                                                                        Sushi-Sei’s minimalist   with creations such as “crystal
                                                                        interiors allow diners to   sushi”—nigiri featuring jewel-like
                                                                        focus on the food       slabs of translucent jelly made from
                                                                                                ingredients such as sake and rose
                                                                                                petals, or ponzu and white ginger.
                                                                                                The effect is oddly refreshing, with
            NOBU                        OKRA BAR                                                the thin film of jelly adding a textural
                                                                                                contrast to the firmer rice and
                9       8       8       8    8       9       8       10                         fish. There is also an “innovative
                                                                                                sushi” section where you’ll find
            2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong,   110 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying                  inventions such as squid ink rice
            18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui,   Pun, Hong  Kong                                 topped with sliced Japanese
            Hong  Kong                  TEL: +852 2806 1038                                     imperial fish, or seared fresh saba
            TEL: +852 2313 2323         www.okra.bar                                            with spring onion—the latter not
            www.hongkong-ic.                                                                    actually all that innovative, but
            intercontinental.com        Okra Bar sits above the main   At Nobu, produce         deliciously fashioned, all the same.
                                        restaurant, Okra Kitchen,     is quality and            At lunchtimes, most diners tend
            Japanese with Peruvian influence   situated along a quiet stretch of                to go for the hearty katsu don
            has long been Nobu’s culinary   Hollywood Road and accessed   combinations          (pork cutlet omelette on rice) or
            style and return visitors will find   through a single flight of stairs.            warming noodles (udon, ramen
                                                                        memorable
            old favourites that are always   The space is kept minimalistic—                    or yakisoba). For dessert, we’re
            well-executed. Here they are   sterile white tiles dominate                         big fans of the fruit mochi, which
            set against panoramic views   the décor—in order to draw all                        combines the pleasantly chewy
            of that famous Hong Kong    your attention to the food and                          mochi balls with fresh fruit and an
            skyline and amidst stylish and   drink. Chef Max Levy can most                      adult hit of Cointreau-flavoured
            satisfying design despite rather   often be found up here, and                           jelly. Light bites are also
            low ceilings. Produce is quality   the creativity and expertise in                          available should you
            and combinations memorable:   his craft makes for an excellent                                need sustenance
            jalapeños pair with yuzu and   omakase experience that you                                      after shopping.
            ponzu; truffles complement miso.   won’t soon forget. Ingredients
            The fish is superb; lightly grilled,   such as rich carabinero prawn is
            the black cod saikyo yaki has a   delicately paired with a smooth   SUSHI SEI
            deliciously buttery texture and   chawanmushi, enhancing the
                                                                      6
                                                                            7
                                                                                 7
            a mildly rich taste enhanced by   natural flavours in the crustacean.                       6
            sweet miso. The yellowtail with   Levy is also a trained itamae, and
            jalapeno does not disappoint   is a big proponent of ageing fish   Shop 2016, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong  Kong
            as the spice of jalapeno and the   to coax out their optimum flavour   TEL: +852 2387 3377
            tangy ponzu complement the   and texture. Fattier fish, for   www.epicurean.com.hk
            slightly oily fish. Desserts have   example, may be washed in brine
            a Japanese twist and are worth   and then stored loosely wrapped   With its subtle blond wood and grey stone exterior, it would be easy to
            saving space for, and the sake list   in draughty conditions. Subject   miss Sushi Sei, if it weren’t for the small queues that form at the entrance
            includes hot and cold options to   to seasonality and availability   on weekdays during lunch hour. The minimalist design carries through to
            suit most tastes. A comprehensive   of ingredients, the assorted   compact, polished-wood interiors, with the option to dine at a sushi counter
            wine menu caters to those who   nigiri sushi selection changes   or at booths and tables. Lunchtimes are busy with shoppers, workers and the
            prefer grape-derived over rice-  daily and allows for a fresh   occasional tourist grabbing a bite to eat before taking the train to the airport.
            based. Service can take some time   experience each visit. It is in the   Most go for set menus, which come with miso soup, salad and other extras,
            to warm up—from a half-hearted   nigiri that the chef’s dedication   depending on your order. Not surprisingly, sushi and sashimi, with seafood
            “Irasshaimase!” on arrival to an   to presenting the very best meal   flown in from Japan, is popular, as are grilled dishes and donburi rice bowls
            almost foot-tapping impatience   to his customers is apparent. Opt   with all manner of toppings. From the cold section, a dish of Tokushima
            while asking for recommendations,   for the sake and wine pairing—the   Handa somen noodle in sea urchin sauce is creamy and has decent umami
            service is slightly lackluster to   sake selections have been as   flavour. Japanese beverages are the drink of choice, from non-alcoholic
            begin with, but it soon warms up   carefully selected as the cuisine   green tea to plum wine, sake, shochu and beer. Service can be patchy and it’s
            and by dessert staff are cracking   and each one will reveal an   no bargain, but with a handy location in IFC mall, Sushi Sei’s winning hand is
            jokes like old friends.     intriguing story to be heard.  choice and convenience.

                                                                                                     T .DINING 2018   |   103
   100   101   102   103   104   105   106   107   108   109   110