Page 107 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition
P. 107

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
                                                  MODERN EUROPEAN



            ALTO                        ABERDEEN STREET SOCIAL                                  CAFÉ GRAY DELUXE
                                  7                           8                                                       8
                         7
                                          8
              7
                    7
                                                                                                   9
                                                     9
                                                                                                             9
                                                                                                        8
                                                8
            31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street,   PMQ, G/F, JPC Building, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong  Kong  49/F, The Upper House, Pacific
            Causeway Bay, Hong  Kong    TEL: +852 2866 0300                                     Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty,
            TEL: +852 2803 7181         www.aberdeenstreetsocial.hk                             Hong  Kong
            www.diningconcepts.com                                                              TEL: +852 3968 1106
                                        Aberdeen Street Social is probably the most upscale of Yenn Wong   www.upperhouse.com
            With its canopy of 230 golden   and Jason Atherton’s collaborations in the city, with its refined menu of
            Melt lightshades, black tables,   contemporary British cuisine. The two-floor space in PMQ features a breezy   The Upper House remains the
            banquettes and booths, green   alfresco patio, casual downstairs bar and more formal but still comfortable   pinnacle of cool for international
            marble and blond timber floors,   upstairs dining room. The menu features classic British dishes given a   travellers searching for a
            Alto, a modern bar and grill   sparkling update with top-notch ingredients and full-bodied flavours;   crashpad in Hong Kong, and its
            in Causeway Bay created by   highlights include a lobster cocktail packed with generous pieces of tender   flagship restaurant by acclaimed
            celebrated British designer   meat, a punchy cocktail sauce and an umami-laden lobster jelly, and a   chef Gray Kunz a firm fixture
            Tom Dixon certainly makes an   blackcurrant Eton mess featuring a gorgeously tart sorbet, fresh blueberries,   among the fashion, art and
            impression. More attention   creamy mascarpone, crunchy shards of meringue and a final dash of miso.   design set. And food lovers, too,
            grabbing is the views of the city’s   The wine list is comprehensive, covering old and new world varieties over   flock here for a stylishly rendered
            skyscrapers and Victoria Harbour   a spread of price points. Service is friendly and attentive, with our waiter   dining experience, and with
            through wraparound floor-to-  demonstrating a clear knowledge of both the wine and food menu. Whilst   new chef Eric Raty at the helm
            ceiling windows. Closely spaced   the menu’s playfulness probably resonates more with those who grew up   we see a new chapter for the
            tables and hard surfaces mean   with British cuisine, all diners should find plenty to enjoy in its undoubted   genre-bending restaurant that
            that noise levels can be high, and   technical excellence, impeccably judged flavours and inspired culinary flair.   is comfortable incorporating a
            the crowd is a mix of fashion-                                                      diverse range of ingredients into
            industry types, shoppers and                                                        the menu. Surprisingly for such
            office workers. Steaks feature                                                      a modish venue, portions are
            prominently on the menu,                                                            hefty—a house-cured gravlax
            including a whopping 40oz USDA                                                      presents itself as a lengthy
            Prime tomahawk. The ahi tuna                                                        tranche of aromatic fish and
            tartare conjures up California with                                                 crisp, light brioche that can be
            its large batons of raw fish topped                                                 shared between two. Go light
            with avocado and orange and                                                         on the starters and make sure
            grapefruit segments. Vegetarians                                                    you order the braised shortrib of
            and non-beef eaters are also                                                        beef with soft grits and a mustard
            catered for and portions are large;                                                 sauce—the meat is fork tender,
            side dishes of grilled asparagus                                                    and the horseradish julienne
            with black truffle butter and                                                       cuts through the richness like
            carbonara macaroni and cheese                                                       a shovel through fresh snow.
            could be starters in themselves                                                     With its impressive views over
            The wine list is a tour of the                                                      Victoria Harbour, Café Gray is a
            world’s major wine regions, from                                                    beautiful perch both in the day
            France and Italy to Australia and                                                   and in the evening; breakfast,
            the USA. Service is friendly and                                                    in particular, is an enjoyable
            accommodating, making Alto a                                                        time to luxuriate in the tranquil
            good option for those in search   The futuristic décor is a                         surroundings while dinner
            of a smart venue that won’t break   defining feature at Felix                       presents a buzzier
            the  bank.                                                                          atmosphere.

            FELIX                                                   FISH & MEAT

                                  7                                                       9
                    7
              7
                         9
                                                                                 9
                                                                            8
                                                                      8
            28/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong  Kong  1 & 2/F, 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong
            TEL: +852 2696 6778                                     TEL: +852 2565 6788
            www.peninsula.com/felix                                 www.fishandmeat.hk
            If you’re the sort who loves your dining rooms with a view then top-floor   Fish & Meat led the pack a few years back when Hong Kong was awash with
            restaurant Felix is an obligatory stop. The Philippe Starck-designed space   a new wave of industrially furnished dining spaces—and it continues to pull
            is divided into several sections, from a wine bar and an American Bar on   its weight when it comes to its roster of comfort food and quality cocktails.
            its mezzanine floors, to a restaurant and wine lounge below. Head chef   Situated on the slope of Wyndham Street, this spacious restaurant is
            Yoshiharu Kaji is an import from The Peninsula in Tokyo, and brings to   generously decked out in a recognisable melange of concrete, wood and
            the table a fusion of modern European culinary training and Japanese   white brickwork that screams contemporary metropolitan dining—the
            sensibilities. The starters set the meal off on a high note: a tart green apple   terrace is often packed with happy hour revellers. Chef Russell Doctrove’s
            compote adds a lift to the richness of duck liver mousse and pan-fried duck   confident modern European cooking gives rise to cult favourites such as
            liver, and a light sake sauce coaxed forth the delicate sweetness of botan   duck egg raviolo with fresh ricotta cream, black truffle and burnt sage butter,
            shrimp tartar. But it is in the mains such as the A5 wagyu striploin and the   or a glorious hunk of 24-hour slow-cooked beef rib glazed with bourbon
            monkfish with squid ink dumplings where the chef’s eagerness to impress   and paired with charred sweetcorn and crispy shallots. As expected for a
            comes through. The wine list is one of Hong Kong’s most coveted: it shows   restaurant under the Maximal Concepts umbrella, the drinks programme is
            off the Peninsula’s over 750 labels and 12,500 bottles in inventory, and will   solid; particularly when it comes to quirky cocktails like the Farm House Jam
            keep your thirst satiated whether you’re looking to celebrate with top-shelf   (vodka, homemade blueberry thyme jam, prosecco) and the well-curated
            champagne or discover uncommon picks from boutique wineries.  wine list full of by-the-glass options. Service is genuine and upbeat.

                                                                                                     T .DINING 2018   |   105
   102   103   104   105   106   107   108   109   110   111   112