Page 104 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
JA PA N E S E

INAKAYA KAIKA LA BOMBANCE
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Shop A, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 19/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, 30/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street,
1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2972 2666 TEL: +852 2972 2888 TEL: +852 3188 3326
www.jcgroup.hk www.jcgroup.hk www.labombance.com.hk
If you’ve been to the original Inakaya in Tokyo, know that the Hong Kong For Japanese fine dining with a Mention the word kaiseki and most
outpost is a more formal experience. Instead of rowdy greetings from bit of interaction, Kaika offers two people will imagine a procession of
chefs, diners enter a zone of Zen calm, 101 floors up in the ICC. It’s more solutions—sushi and teppanyaki, refined morsels artfully presented
like three restaurants in one, with a sushi bar and main dining room, then a served at bar seats in separate on beautiful lacquerware and
teppanyaki counter and private rooms, all affording spectacular views of areas, in front of the respective ceramics in formal settings at
Hong Kong Island. The third space is a robatayaki room, where customers chefs. Teppanyaki is their strong exorbitant prices. La Bombance
focus on the grilling action by chefs kneeling in front of them. No matter suit, with premium produce such challenges that notion by delivering
where you sit, Inakaya is about ultra-premium ingredients prepared simply, as A5 Japanese wagyu, Iberico a smart-casual experience at
at prices as dizzying as the height. Start with sushi or sashimi, freshly flown pork and vegetables flown in more accessible prices, without
in from Japan, before progressing to top-grade wagyu beef and vegetables directly from Japan, and prices sacrificing quality. It’s a difficult
cooked on a hotplate, and ending with some fried or baked rice. The wine to match. The chefs cook with line to tread, but the Hong Kong
list is heavy on first-rate Bordeaux, though it’s the sake list that stands out. precision, although seasoning can offshoot of this well-regarded
Staff are unfailingly polite, though non-Cantonese speakers may have some sometimes be inconsistent, and Tokyo restaurant succeeds with
difficulty with more complex communications. engage in quiet conversation with its French-influenced Japanese
diners, making it a good place for fare. A large central table, akin to
intimate dinners. The clever pairing a wide sushi counter, dominates
of an intense red miso with the the minimalist space, and you sit
Top-grade wagyu teppanyaki Nagoya chicken steak facing the splendid Hong Kong
beef at Inakaya heightens the chicken’s natural skyline (individual tables can
flavours. Tender yet flavourful, the also be requested). Only a single
teppanyaki Australian wagyu rib nine-course menu is available
eye is served with a slab of pink salt for dinner, while lunch can be
to season to your own taste. To good value. The seasonal nature
finish, sea urchin fried rice is rich of kaiseki means that the menu
with the flavours of the sea thanks changes regularly, featuring
to its topping of ikura. The wine plenty of seafood and vegetables.
list, which is shared with Harlan’s, Seasonal sushi and sashimi
the fine dining restaurant next might include excellent torched
door, could use more imagination— striped horse mackerel and gently
while you’ll find bottles from well- simmered baby abalone. Wines are
known winemaking regions all over available, though sake is the tipple
the world, better priced and more of choice. Service is attentive and
boutique bottles would make it the restaurant is good for dates or
more attractive. The sake list has a small group celebration. Diners
a decent number of small bottles must provide credit card details
for light drinking, but again, it would to guarantee a reservation, so take
be more interesting to see smaller note of the cancellation policy and
producers represented. Service, discuss any dietary restrictions
however, is top notch. beforehand.

MATSUBISHI NADAMAN

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3/F, Convention Plaza, Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 7/F, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road,
TEL: +852 2824 1298 Hong Kong
www.matsubishi.com.hk TEL: +852 2820 8570
www.shangri-la.com/island
This teppanyaki spot is rather unassuming in its décor, and its out-of-
the-way locale translates to easy reservations, but that doesn’t mean A stalwart on Hong Kong’s Japanese dining scene, the Shangri-La’s old
the restaurant isn’t up to impress. Patrons can choose between large faithful is the location of choice for a kaiseki meal. Often popular with
tables—those next to the large harbour-facing windows are great for dinner Japanese families as well as corporate workers looking to impress a client,
with a view—or, for the full teppanyaki experience, a seat by the grill. Sushi Nadaman may not necessarily be the most innovative, but is certainly
and sashimi are well represented and of very high standard, but it’s the a dependable option for a smart meal. The menu is large, comprising
iron griddle you should have your focus on. Seafood such as scallops and most common items in the Japanese culinary canon—sushi, teppanyaki,
prawns are skilfully cooked and delicately browned, and so is a tangy dish tempura—though many tend to opt for the kaiseki sets that offer a myriad of
of aubergine kissed with white and red miso. The grilled cod is perhaps the intricate treats prettily presented on various stone- and lacquer-wear. The
highlight, however: tender and well-seasoned, it has an almost buttery, classic Kiri set includes eight courses spanning sashimi to steamed dishes to
melt-in-the-mouth texture. Service is extremely attentive, particularly in simmered dishes and rice; an egg custard with pike eel and plum sauce was
the timing and delivery of the different courses. The drink menu, presented a delicate start to the meal while grilled ayu fish served
on iPads, is extensive and centred around an impressive sake selection; in bamboo offered deeper, smokier flavours. It’s
but wine lovers won’t be disappointed either, with remarkable choices and a worth noting that Nadaman has a dedicated
private collection. section for vegetarians, too.

102 | T .DINING 2018