Page 108 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
MODERN EUROPEAN

HUGO’S MANDARIN GRILL ON DINING
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Lobby Level, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 28/F-29/F, 18 On Lan Street,
Hong Kong Connaught Road, Central, Central, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 3721 7733 Hong Kong TEL: +852 2174 8100
www.hongkongtsimshatsui.regency.hyatt.com TEL: +852 2825 4004 www.ontop.hk
www.mandarinoriental.com
The second incarnation of this longstanding iconic restaurant is still a hit In a city traditionally dominated
among Hongkongers looking for a dining experience that harks from the A place where service is excellent by fine dining venues in hotels,
halcyon days of tableside trolley service, bow-tied waitstaff and live music and the staff greet you like family. it is always pleasing to see a
courtesy of a roving singer with an acoustic guitar. With dishes such as While Mandarin Grill can be restaurant succeed outside
steak au poivre (generously portioned and perfectly cooked) and lobster busy on weekdays over lunch, those confines—and such is the
thermidore offered without a hint of irony, the menu is retro and, in many evenings are much more relaxed, case with On Dining. Helmed by
ways, reassuring—perfect for those times when wrapping your head around with lamps dimmed, candles lit chef Philippe Orrico, the menu
the floridities of modern cuisine seems too much of a challenge. Made and curtains drawn. Tables are here is upscale contemporary
tableside, the lobster bisque is luscious and full of flavour. The chocolate generously spaced and great for French with some Mediterranean
soufflé rises beautifully and has a lovely marshmallow-like texture while extended hours of conversation. flourishes, as epitomised by what
managing to retain an intensely chocolate flavour. The expansive marble- The menu, which showcases has become the restaurant’s
decked open kitchen, however, is decidedly modern, as is the decision to use meat and seafood dishes, has signature roasted pigeon; on our
more carefully sourced and responsible ingredients. For the casual drinker, been given a modern update visit, the meat is pink and tender,
the range of wines by the glass is decent. by the talented kitchen team. accompanied with a richly full-
The place is known for its top bodied jus, cherry confit and baby
billing oysters, (Gillardeau, Perle aubergine that really augment the
Blanche, Majestic, Fanny Bay and bird’s gamey flavour. Starters and
Nostalgic favourites such Kumamoto, to name a few), so if desserts, including an outstanding
as baked Alaska are on you’re the type who loves them, layered chocolate cake, are also
the menu at Hugo’s make sure to order a batch of impressive but however full you
what’s in season. Highlights of the are, any visit to On is incomplete
dinner menu include the grilled without a sweep of their cheese
octopus, mikan orange and white selection, which features many
miso, which is perfectly cooked— varieties rarely found elsewhere
tender and buttery soft. As for the in Hong Kong. (Tip: visit on Friday
main, would recommend any of for the freshest selection of
the steak options, especially the fromage.) The extensive wine list
daily carvery special, which comes is also noteworthy, and includes
with a choice of roquefort, green one of the widest selections of
peppercorn, truffle bearnaise or boutique champagne labels in the
piquillo sauce. The sommelier’s city. In fact, On’s glossy, largely
recommendations were all monochromatic décor is probably
spot-on, and the wine list is a the most unmemorable thing
broad range of bottles and sizes, about a visit here; nevertheless,
with most of the wine-producing it is content to let the food do
regions represented. Service the talking which, although a little
is personal and sophisticated; pricey, it does in pretty
remember to let them know if you spectacular
are celebrating a special occasion. style.

THE CONTINENTAL UPPER MODERN BISTRO

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Unit 406, L4 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong 6 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2704 5211 TEL: +852 2517 0977
www.thecontinentalhongkong.com www.upper-bistro.com
Styled after the grand cafes of Europe, the interiors at The Continental are With its blue-and-copper colour scheme and Scandi-chic chairs, the
pleasing and welcoming, with an array of gold and emerald accents. Floor- welcoming interiors of Upper Modern Bistro are light and sophisticated—two
to-ceilings windows fill the space with natural light during the day, but also qualities the chefs also aspire to in their food. The menu opens with an
allows diners to enjoy the night sky as the evening progresses. Seated in extensive list of tapas-style dishes such as foie gras and beef carpaccio,
comfortable leather banquettes, diners may enjoy dishes from a well- many of which are livened up with Japanese ingredients such as miso and
curated menu; the delicately balanced escargot and chanterelle mushroom yuzu. The tomato salad may be dull in name but not in nature—this light and
fricassee is a great starter, pairing different textures that excite the palate. refreshing starter comes topped with a spicy tomato sorbet. And don’t be
The Iberico pork pluma and sausage is tender and expertly cooked, with a fooled by the “Small Creative” heading—some of these supposedly small
salad of fennel, pumpkin and grape to offset the indulgence. Seafood items plates are as big as the mains. Prices give some indication of portion size,
are must-trys, such as the Maine lobster spaghetti which is rich, creamy, and and the staff can answer any other questions about the dishes or about
truly decadent with its lobster roe sauce. Wine offerings are well thought out, the impressive wine list. Elsewhere on the menu, the onsen egg and salmon
and servers and more than capable to recommend a bottle for your meal, teriyaki are must-haves, but most meals at Upper Modern Bistro lead to
although cocktails also deserve a second look. The Continental remains one thing: the Upper Cheese Selection. Featuring eight generous wedges
a firm favourite for weekend brunch, with an abundance of natural light accompanied by soldiers of toast, this indulgent cheese platter is the
flooding the impressive space. undisputed jewel in Upper Modern Bistro’s crown.

106 | T .DINING 2018