Page 80 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
THE NEW GASTRONOMY

AMBER
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10
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7/F, The Landmark Mandarin
Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central,
Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2132 0066
www.amberhongkong.com

The story of Amber is one that
is constantly being rewritten.
Following a menu shake-up in which
several long-term signature dishes
were shown the exit, we have had
time to examine and appreciate
culinary director Richard Ekkebus’
new point of view. French at its
heart but with a firm footing in the
bounty of fresh, seasonal produce Belon’s signature roast
afforded by Hong Kong’s proximity chicken is a favourite
to Japan, Amber’s dishes are a of regular guests
seamless, genre-defying collective
of inventive flavour combinations.
The menu feels tighter than ever
before, with eight dishes on the a BELON BIBO
la carte; the degustation remains
both the better value and more 8 9 8 9 8 7 8 7
enticing of the menus. Amber is the
kind of restaurant that encourages G/F, 41 Elgin Street, Central, 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung
Shane Osborn’s
indulgence of the highest order— Hong Kong Wan, Hong Kong
where sweet langoustine and magic comes TEL: +852 2152 2872 TEL: +852 2956 3188
Schrenki caviar are layered over www.belonsoho.com www.bibo.hk
petals of sea urchin, but where from using tip-
beauty can also be found in the Belon certainly isn’t an everyday Bibo is part of Le Comptoir
top seasonal
direction of wagyu beef dusted with dining experience. Young chef group, the sophisticates behind
dried red onion skin and seaweed ingredients to Daniel Calvert’s ever-changing openings such as The Ocean,
powder, to thrilling effect. The menu sees classic techniques Umi, and Tri. This Sheung Wan
create deceptively
service is smooth as silk, with staff combined with contemporary venue was one of its first in their
anticipating your next move with simple food that sensibilities and the finest seasonal portfolio of restaurants to open
casual confidence. Trust in the wine ingredients, resulting in dishes that in Hong Kong, and it carries all
selections by head sommelier John requires a mastery range from refined takes on bistro the signature characteristics of
Chan, who has brought pizzazz as favourites (such as the restaurant’s the group’s eventual follow-ups,
of technique
well as prestige to the list, which famous roast chicken with petits where money seems to be no
offers intriguing selections by the pois a la Francais) to intriguing object. The space, which looks
glass. Amber is due to undergo creations you are unlikely to find out onto Cat Street and Ladder
renovation by mid-2018, and we will anywhere else (a stellar tomato Street, is beautifully decorated
be excited to see its next chapter. terrine with anchovies and burrata (in this case with some pretty
on our visit). priceless and impressive modern
Whilst a couple of items do feel art pieces, from Jean-Michel
ARCANE rather expensive for the portion Basquiat to Kaws); it’s buzzy;
size, there is little to fault in terms and it’s expensive. In contrast
9 of flavour or execution—and to its surroundings, Bibo offers
9
9
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the evening is much enhanced fairly classic French cuisine,
3/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong by the restaurant’s friendly but with an emphasis on premium
TEL: +852 2728 0178 knowledgeable staff, and relaxed ingredients such as Hokkaido
www.arcane.hk unstuffy atmosphere. scallop, Brittany blue lobster or
The décor exudes a fittingly Miyazaki wagyu beef, presented
Hong Kong needs more restaurants like Arcane. It is independent, not part of understated kind of luxury, with in numerous artful ways. Located
a big group. The chef-owner, Shane Osborn, is usually in the kitchen, instead onyx-marble tables, blonde wood along historic Hollywood Road,
of simply putting his name on the menu. Diners’ dietary requirements fittings and hanging globe lamps just diagonally across the street
are happily accommodated, rather than being sniffed at. Service is that exude a warm welcoming glow, from tourist magnet Man Mo
knowledgeable, without being condescending. The wine list is extensive, if making it an ideal location to enjoy Temple, Bibo is a reliable spot
a little expensive, and full of interesting and approachable styles from Italy, a long lingering meal with a tipple always for a quick drink before
Burgundy and beyond. As for the modern European food, it is delectable, or two (the wine list is especially dinner; a no-fuss yet reliable
while lacking in pretention. Osborn’s magic comes from using tip-top well-curated—look out for the business lunch; or even Sunday
seasonal ingredients to create deceptively simple food that requires a restaurant’s Rare Wine Nights on brunch with
mastery of technique. This is evident in dishes such as the signature sautéed Wednesdays). In the continually free-flow
potato gnocchi with black truffle, caramelised on the outside, pillow-soft changing streets of Soho, Belon’s champagne.
within and bathed in flavour from the rustic mousserons, pine nut and assured cuisine and unpretentious ILLUSTRATIONS CHRIS CHAN
spinach cream. It’s the total package, a recipe for success that ensures this ambience means it definitely
intimate restaurant is constantly busy, attracting a local and international deserves to stick around for
clientele of regulars from finance, fashion, art, business and the food world. the long haul.

78 | T .DINING 2018