Page 82 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
THE NEW GASTRONOMY

TATE SERGE ET LE PHOQUE TA VIE
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210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Shop B2, G/F, The Zenith, 3 Wan 2/F, The Pottinger, 74 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
Hong Kong Chai Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2668 6488
TEL: +852 2555 2172 TEL: +852 5465 2000 www.tavie.com.hk
www.tate.com.hk www.facebook.com/
sergeetlephoque It may lack the glitzy views and over-the-top opulence of Hong Kong’s
Poetry on a plate is the first thing flashier fine diners, but that’s exactly the point—Ta Vie is, without a doubt,
that comes to mind when we dine at Four years after its opening, one of the city’s top tables for a special occasion, yet you won’t find them
Tate, and it’s not just because of the Serge et le Phoque continues to shouting it from the rooftops. Chef Hideaki Sato has quietly pushed the
intricate and impossibly beautiful surprise and delight in the most contemporary Japanese envelope further since his days at Tenku Ryugin,
presentation of the dishes. Chef- delicious ways possible. Its exciting, serving a degustation menu that brings together the Japanese insistence
owner Vicky Lau, formerly a seasonal menu remains utterly on seasonality, and European cooking techniques, from fresh pasta to puff
graphic designer (which shows in unique in the city—a modern, pastry and gelées, all perfectly executed. The menu changes often, and
the picture perfect interiors), has stylish blend of premium produce features ingredients at their prime, from all over the globe, be it lobster from
chosen to create a tasting menu and French-meets-Asian flavours Ise or Thai green mango. The wine list is predominantly French, although
titled “All The Odes”, which feature and techniques that lingers in the there are a few Japanese standouts, with a good selection from Burgundy
multiple courses dedicated to the memory long after the last bite of and Rhône that will please even connoisseurs. Sake and cocktails made
ingredients, moments or concepts your meal. The restaurant’s with fresh produce from the wet market, as well as an excellent
that have inspired her throughout location in the heart of Wan tea and drip coffee offering, round off a great beverage program.
her life. Ode to Chiuchow, for Chai’s wet market is a telling Service is professional yet relaxed, putting diners at ease.
example, is a culinary homage to representation of how Serge
her father’s roots, and features a shakes up the idea of fine
traditional flavour profile of spiced dining; with its teal banquette VEA
soy-based sauce paired with seats, bleached wood furniture
goose and foie gras. Ode to Hong and hanging globe lights, it exudes a 9 9 10 9
Kong is another—a dish of fresh casual-cool ambience, with friendly
abalone paired with tuna jus and and knowledgeable staff that Serge Et Le 29-30/F, The Wellington, 198
tightly wound ribbons of cooked further contribute to its laidback Wellington Street, Central,
Phoque’s location
vegetables that looks as delicate welcoming vibes. The food too Hong Kong
as artwork. Each course is carefully wears its excellence lightly; the in the heart of TEL: +852 2711 8639
considered not only for aesthetic kitchen makes combining eclectic www.vea.hk
Wan Chai’s wet
value, but for layers of complex elements like scallops, cauliflower,
flavours that seem to unravel anchovy, poutargue and yuzu market is a telling Few restaurants are as fascinating
and build upon each other as the kosho seem easy, with expertly as VEA, where chef Vicky Cheng’s
meal progresses. Ode to Bees judged hits of flavour. The wine representation high-end gastronomy melds
completes the meal, and feature list focuses heavily on French with a respect for Hong Kong’s
of how the
mignardises that incorporate local labels, with more unusual natural local, seasonal ingredients and
honey, housed in a custom-made, and biodynamic varieties offered restaurant shakes food traditions. Pair that with
stackable wooden beehive for alongside the classics. Serge et le an intriguing cocktail pairing
up the idea of fine
guests to work their way down to Phoque remains a true one-off in programme by Antonio Lai, and
each tray of treats. It’s a perfect Hong Kong—delivering confident, dining the dining experience is rather
example of the lengths to which sophisticated cooking with a special. Cheng’s Hong Kong and
Lau will go to create a beautiful and creative, playful heart—and we Shanghainese upbringing has
unforgettable dining experience for cannot wait to discover what new created highly original homage to
every guest at Tate. wonders lie ahead on our next visit. familiar dishes such as Cantonese
‘white cut’ chicken; the chef
chooses prized local yellow chicken
for the dish, which is fashioned into
Vea’s curved chef’s a contemporary rendition paired
table allows full with a scintillating scallion and ginger
view of the action oil and a side of poached Chinese
cabbage draped with sheer Iberico
pork lardo. A read of the menu
will reveal a global outlook, with
ingredients ranging from longan (to
add sweetness to raw shima aji)
to cordyceps (featured in Cheng’s
signature roasted sea cucumber
dish). We find some of the cocktail
pairings on the sugary side, so if a
touch of sweetness is not your jam,
we recommend the more traditional
wine pairing option instead. The
service is expertly judged, ticking
along like clockwork. There is
attention to detail everywhere, from
the comfortable curve of the bar
seats that allow you to sit back and
relax, to the rectangle of fabric for
your phone to rest upon.

80 | T .DINING 2018