Page 83 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
SCENE

HAM & SHERRY

6 6 8 4
1-7 Ship Street, Wanchai,
Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2555 0628
www.hamandsherry.hk

It is hard not to be charmed by the
blue and white mosaic-tiled eatery
tucked away on the buzzy Ship
Street in Wan Chai. Capturing the
vivacious flair of a Spanish bodega,
the Jason Atherton-helmed
restaurant boasts a 50-strong
sherry list—the largest in town—as
well as sangrias, wines, and Spanish
staples including a ‘special on the
board’ tapas menu that frequently
22 Ships is not your switches up. The charcuterie
average tapas joint platter serves up a feast of jamón
and chorizo, but the paleta ibérico
de bellota (aged 36 months) was
particularly outstanding with its
22 SHIPS COBO HOUSE smokiness and buttery, earthy
flavours. The prawns and clams-
6 8 8 8 7 7 8 7 studded seafood paella oozed
a complex, vibrant aroma, while
22 Ship Street, Wan Chai, G/F & 1/F, 8-12 South Lane, Sai Wan, standout smaller dishes included
Hong Kong Hong Kong the beautifully-presented seabass
Capturing the
TEL: +852 2555 0722 TEL: +852 2656 3088 and gambas al ajillo that packed a
www.22ships.hk www.cobohouse.com vivacious flair of sharp garlicky kick. The cinnamon
sugar-dusted churros dipped in a
a Spanish bodega,
22 Ships was the first Hong Kong Singaporean Janice Wong is the decadently nutty chocolate sauce
venture for much-heralded British chef behind Cobo House, and Ham & Sherry put the sweet finish on the Spanish
chef Jason Atherton, opening although she is primarily known for feast. Service is casual, although
back in 2012—and it is still going her sweets, having been named one boasts a 50-strong sometimes hurried—our only gripe
strong today, with a modern tapas of the best pastry chefs in Asia, about the otherwise delightful
sherry list, the
menu that continues to offer Cobo House is also one of the few eatery. Post-dinner, sneak off
plenty of gastronomic sparks. This restaurants in the world that serves largest in town through an assuming alleyway
small buzzy spot on Ship Street is her savoury dishes. Located on a into the intimate next-door
dominated by a central U-shaped quiet street in Sai Wan, the space Back Bar for another
open bar; its high stool seating is meticulously curated by local art round of cocktails
is cramped and uncomfortable, collector and connoisseur Adrian by award-winning
whilst the restaurant’s open Cheng, ensuring that what hangs bartender Ryan
frontage makes it a rather sweaty on the walls are as beautiful as Nightingale.
evening too, but the food is what’s served on the plates. Case
strong enough to overlook minor in point: the Myriad soup, made
discomfort for an hour or two. The with a combination of both white
portions may be small, but the and green asparagus, is a creamy LE GARÇON SAIGON
flavours are spot on; dishes such and delectable starter. The lamb
as scallop ceviche with yuzu and T-bone, served pink, is juicy, yet 6 7 8 8
Chinese radish and a dessert of nicely counter-balanced by the
strawberry, toasted marshmallow sweet potato and baby carrots G/F, 12-18 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
and Chantilly cream are vibrant served alongside. The churros, TEL: +852 2455 2499
mini concertos of cleverly- meanwhile, are possibly the best www.legarconsaigon.com
contrasting flavours and textures— we’ve had in Hong Kong, and we
each element is masterfully prefer them served with the 75% There is something terribly chic about Le Garcon Saigon, most likely down to
executed, with extra brownie hot chocolate. The restaurant its Parisian bistro elegance blended with the vibrant, bustling energy of Ho
points for beautiful presentation also embraces the farm to table Chi Minh City by way of charming, youthful staff. Seats are tight, no doubt,
The wine list features an array of philosophy, and even has its own but the intimacy adds to the rough-and-tumble nature of this convivial
Spanish sherries alongside more roof garden growing herbs and Vietnamese eatery. The paper placemats showcase dishes that sometimes
familiar reds and whites, all with plants in Okinawan sea sand. throw in a few culinary curveballs, such as the furikake and smoked queso
comprehensive tasting notes. Although Cobo House is open for fresco sprinkled over the grilled corn, or nashi pear and crispy yuba sheets
Service is efficient although lunch and dinner, afternoon tea in the otherwise classic shredded cabbage salad. Expect to get your hands
somewhat brusque and lacking is also on offer: dishes include dirty, as we did with the Mayura wagyu beef tri-tip skewers, designed to be
in warmth. Five years since its savoury bites such as smoked extracted and wrapped in rice paper with lettuce, fresh herbs, vermicelli
opening, 22 Ships delivers ample eggplant and smoked beet salmon noodles and pickles. Clever twists such as the condensed milk flan with
proof why it has outlasted the sandwiches; as well as sweet treats drip coffee caramel give the obligatory hat-tips to Vietnamese traditions
hype—its tapas for the 21st century such as green tea financiers or while offering the well-travelled diner a bit of a thrill. To drink, flip through
continues to be exciting, innovative a mini salted caramel and dark the volume of fruit-forward libations or simply opt for a chilled bottle of Bia
and downright delicious. chocolate bar. Saigon lager.

T .DINING 2018 | 81