Page 81 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
THE NEW GASTRONOMY

FRANTZÉN’S KITCHEN HAKU NEIGHBORHOOD
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G/F, 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Shop OT G04B, G/F, Ocean Basement, 61-63 Hollywood Road,
TEL: +852 2559 8508 Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Central, Hong Kong
www.frantzenskitchen.com Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2617 0891
TEL: +852 2115 9965 www.facebook.com/
This small pocket of Sweden in the quieter end of Sheung Wan is the site of www.facebook.com/ neighborhoodhk
some of the most exciting gastronomy to come out in Hong Kong in recent hakuhongkong
years. It is expected—after all, Frantzén’s Kitchen is the spin-off of chef Björn Visiting Neighborhood is like
Frantzén’s much lauded eponymous restaurant in Stockholm, and chef Jim If you’re the sort to turn a nose up receiving a surprise gift from your
Löfdahl has done his mentor proud. The diminutive space means it’s a bit of at shopping mall restaurants, then best friend—you never quite know
a tight fit, and you can be certain to knock elbows with fellow diners if you opt more fool you—a place like Haku, what it is you will be getting, but
for the counter seats—but it’s worth it, to witness the final preparations that which is nestled into one of Hong you are always certain that it will
go into highly stylised dishes such as the “Swedish sushi”, a tranche of crispy Kong’s busiest retail monoliths, be something truly special. Chef-
white moss topped with fallow deer, ceps mayonnaise, and shavings of frozen is right up there with the best of owner David Lai has cultivated a
foie gras. The servings can sometimes be comically small—it’s best you treat the city’s fine dining destinations. menu that thrives on its seasonality,
the majority of the menu as small plates—but the technique and precision But make no mistake, for this is changing frequently to incorporate
put into crafting them almost justifies the high pricing. Seek out the well not a quiet, reverential temple the freshest produce, resulting
informed staff for a second opinion on how to build your meal, of gastronomy. The food is taken in a concise line-up of dishes
and trust in them to parlay the more obscure ingredients and seriously, but the atmosphere that deliver unusual, exciting and
flavours into a more approachable vernacular. is far more fun than what spectacular flavours every time.
would be expected—and Tucked in a side-alley next to Pak
it’s the kind of place Tsz Lane park, the restaurant is
GRASSROOTS PANTRY where patrons can small and cosy, with an unassuming
feel just as comfortable simple but elegant décor that is
7 7 6 6 At Neighborhood, ordering a glass of Hitachino happy to let the food bask in all
white ale as they would a top-end the attention it deserves. Lai is
Shop D, G/F, CentreStage, 108 Chef-owner Burgundy. Chef Agustin Balbi sees unafraid to tackle offal cuts and
Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, to maintaining that convivial vibe, more unfamiliar types of seafood.
David Lai has
Hong Kong tending to just over a dozen diners Amidst all the specials, there is
TEL: +852 2873 3353 cultivated a menu perched at the chef’s counter one constant—Neighborhood’s
www.grassrootspantry.com (make sure to request these seats transcendent chocolate palette,
that thrives on when booking), serving a thrilling a luxuriously rich yet feather-light
Since opening five years ago, chef- line-up of dishes featuring the best expression of pure poetry on the
its seasonality,
owner Peggy Chan of Grassroots of Japanese produce. The result is plate. The wine list is similarly short
Pantry has been on a mission resulting in a a procession of good looking plates but well curated and reasonably
to introduce the general public that are worthy of both the palate priced; whilst the majority are
concise line-up of
to green eating by way of tasty, and the Instagram feed, such as the French and Italian varieties, we spot
vegetarian dishes that appeal dishes that deliver chef’s interpretation of Kagoshima a few more unusual regions such as
to both vegetarians and meat- A4 wagyu—here finished off in front Lebanon and Slovenia represented.
eaters alike. The illustrated unusual, exciting, of the guest over billowing charcoal Service hits the mark too. In a city
menu, while small, does this by smoke before being cut into neat where many restaurants operate to
and spectacular
simulating various popular dishes triangles and vibrantly coloured diminishing returns as the years go
across different cuisines, be it flavours seasonal vegetables. A top place by, it is a real pleasure to find a place
Indian, Vietnamese, Italian and/or where the precise yet innovative that delights in turning out food that
Japanese. Popcorn ‘chicken’, satay cooking will stay with you. just keeps getting better.
skewers, and ‘Bolognese’ pasta all
feature on the menu—but don’t
worry, it’s all made with faux meat
(hedgehog mushroom being a
main ingredient, with a texture that
is uncannily like cooked chicken
breast). Now located on Hollywood
Road from its original spot in Sai
Ying Pun, the industrial greenhouse-
feel restaurant is bright, plant-
filled and made for Instagram-
loving, smoothie-sipping hipsters.
Communal wooden tables are the
norm here, so don’t be surprised
if you end up knowing more about
your neighbours than you do your
dining partner by the end of the
night. Service can sometimes be
spotty and impersonal, which is a
disappointment for a restaurant
with otherwise so much personality.
Nevertheless, the restaurant’s
ethos of doing good for the planet is The prime seats at Haku
commendable and something worth are at the chef’s counter
getting behind.

T .DINING 2018 | 79