Page 31 - The Economist Asia January 2018
P. 31

The Economist January 27th 2018
                                                                                                       United States 31
             2 another 900 shops this year. Yet rural com-  gardens; the cars parked in front of the  west, keen to cash in on the booming
              munities account for only 46m, or 15%, of  shop are mostly gleaming SUVs and big  ranching industry. “Ranching work was
              the population—and they are shrinking  pickup trucks. The “market” outlet offers  challenging, manly and allowed black
              fast. Many small towns have only 75% of  fresh shrimp, Chobani yogurts and other  people to make as much as whites. It al-
              the population they had 25 years ago. In 33  fancy foodstuffs.        lowed them to do something that gave
              counties in Illinois, the population peaked  Walmart’srapid rise caused resentment  their families some measure of equality,”
              over a century ago, says Mr Merrett. To  in rural communities as it killed smaller lo-  says William Loren Katz, author of “The
              keep expanding so rapidly, Dollar General  cal shops and was said to treat its workers  Black West” and 40 other books on Afri-
              will need to appeal to those with a higher  poorly. Dollar General, however, ventures  can-American history. Historians estimate
              income than the working poor. It has al-  into places where the last grocery shop of-  that of the 35,000 cowboys who ranged
              ready made inroads into more affluent  ten closed years ago, which is why its re-  the West between 1866 and 1895, at the
              groups. According to Nielsen, a marketing  ception bylocalstendsto be much friendli-  height of the cattle  industry, between
              researcher, 43% of customers with house-  er. The same is likely to be true as Dollar  5,000 and 9,000 were black.
              hold income of$29,000 orlessbutalso 23%  General expands into troubled urban  During the Jim Crow era blacks were
              of those earning more than $70,000 said  neighbourhoods such as Chicago’s South  shut out of most rodeos. The cowboys in
              they shopped at a dollar store in 2016. The  Side, where rents are cheap. In these so-  the novels and films that familiarised the
              new shop in Lewisburg is on Yell Road,  called food deserts, an investment by any  rest ofAmerica with the West were almost
              which is lined with pretty houses and big  retaileris good news. 7   always white. Without venues to compete
                                                                                   in or stars to inspire young black cowboys,
                                                                                   the tradition eroded. As Ms Vason-Cun-
              Race and horses                                                      ningham waits for the Bill Pickett rodeo to
              Rodeo drive                                                          begin, she estimates that fewer than 5% of
                                                                                   cowboys in the Professional Rodeo Cow-
                                                                                   boys Association, the country’s largest ro-
                                                                                   deo organisation, are black. The organisa-
                                                                                   tion says it does not track the ethnicities of
                                                                                   its riders, though it does ask about their fa-
                                                                                   vourite food: “I can tell you that for 99% of
              DENVER                                                               them it’s steak.”
              The Bill Pickettrodeo aims to restore blackAmericans to the saddle
                                                                                     Appropriately, the  first event of the
                PARTfrom the MissyElliotand Ludacris  likes of Buffalo Bill and Will Rogers under  night in Denver is steer wrestling. Before
              Asongs that blare through the speakers  the stage-name of “The Dusky Deamon”;  entering the arena, Tory Johnson, a 32-
              in lieu of country tunes, the Bill Pickett In-  he was the first black man ever admitted  year-old from Oklahoma City, secures his
              vitational sounds and looks like a typical  into the ProRodeo Hall ofFame. Butwhere-  cowboy hat, shifts his weight from side to
              rodeo. In the dirt arena cowboys and cow-  as Pickett’s talent was rare, black cowboys  side in his stirrups and tightens his grip on
              girls cling to bucking broncos. They rope  during his era were not. They were funda-  the reins. He takes a deep breath and gives
              calvesand weave in and outofbarrels. The  mental to the settling of the West, both as  a subtle nod. The gates spring open. On a
              stands are packed with fans decked out in  slaves and freedmen. In the first half ofthe  golden Palomino with a flowingmane and
              cowboy hats and boots who nibble at bar-  19th century, white Americans in search of  thick white blaze, Mr Johnson explodes
              becued chicken and gasp when riders are  cheap land flocked to Texas, which was  forward into the dirt arena in pursuit of a
              thrown to the ground. At half-time there is  then Spanish and, after1821, a Mexican ter-  steerthathasbeen released in front ofhim.
              “mutton busting”, an event in which small  ritory. Some brought slaves with them to  He tips off his mount until his arms are
              children are plonked onto the backs of  work their newly established cotton farms  locked around the steer’s neck; then he
              sheep and ordered to hang on as their  and cattle ranches. After slavery was abol-  kicksboth feetoutofhisstirrups, leans into
              fuzzymountsdartaround the ring. The big-  ished, ranchers hired theirformerslaves as  the steer and wrestles it to the ground—
              gest difference is that all the contestants—  paid workers.           with no use of teeth, it should be noted.
              and most ofthe audience—are black.   Black people from the east also flocked  The whole ordeal takes 5.6 seconds. 7
                The Bill Pickett Invitational, which per-
              formed in Denver on Martin Luther King
              Day and will visit five other places this
              year, isAmerica’sonlytouringblackrodeo.
              It was founded in 1984 by Lu Vason, a mu-
              sic-industry promoter, after he attended a
              rodeo in Cheyenne, Wyoming, and “didn’t
              see a single rider who looked like him”, re-
              calls Valeria Vason-Cunningham, who has
              run the rodeo since her husband’s death in
              2015. Vason decided to name the rodeo
              after Bill Pickett. Born in 1870 in Texas, Pick-
              ett was the son ofa freed slave who invent-
              ed the sport ofsteer wrestling, or “bulldog-
              ging”. Pickett would gallop after a cow on
              his horse, spring off, draw the cow’s face
              into his own face by its horns, and latch his
              teeth into its lip as he had seen herder dogs
              do. The bite would confuse the steer, al-
              lowing Pickett to pull it over with just his
              jaw, his hands held skyward.
                Pickett went on to perform with the  Yee-haw
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