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to see if the control surface engravings are
lined up. Don’t assume that they are and plan
your cuts accordingly if they are not. After
deciding whether or not to cut around the
Removing and Repositioning Parts hinges, I usually start by scratching the
On Your Aircraft Model separation line with a scribing tool while
using a straight edge. If there is no engraved
You can greatly enhance the
channel, use labeling tape to guide your
realism of your model aircraft
scriber. Keep running the scribing tool in the
by removing and repositioning
same direction as you cut deeper.
parts. Also, going this extra
mile can give you the edge in A razor saw is very useful for cutting from the
modeling competitions. This is edge of the wing/control surface in to the
because real aircraft are rarely first hinge. Again, make sure that you are
seen with their control aware of the top-bottom alignment of the
surfaces engraved lines. To ensure a clean cut along
(i.e. ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, trim tabs, etc.) in their neutral the intended path, it is a good idea to scribe
or retracted position. the path before cutting.
Furthermore, because of their demanding maintenance Repositioning trim tabs are another good way
needs, military aircraft are often found in the hanger (or
to add realism. The good news is that most
hanger deck) with some hatches and access panels removed. times they do not need to be removed. You
In this article, we will summarize the basic techniques for can usually cut the sides free and then bend
removing and reattaching plastic model aircraft control
them up or down. A razor saw is typically the
surfaces and parts. For an excellent, detailed document with best choice for this. Another nice effect to
lots of helpful pictures, we recommend downloading this
add realism to trim tabs is to add control
tutorial from the very accomplished modeling instructor Mike
cables. Add a control horn to the tab and drill
Ashey. a tiny hole into the corresponding wing. Run
First off, don’t be compelled to remove and reattach all of the a thin stainless steel wire between the two.
control surfaces on your model. Think about what will give
After removing and cleaning up the parts to
maxim impact versus effort and risk of damaging the parts. remove excess plastic, there are a number of
The rudder is typically the first part to consider because its
ways to fill the voids. We typically use plastic
deflection is usually the most noticeable. After that, I usually
sheet stock and/or two-part casting resin.
consider elevators, ailerons and finally flaps respectively. One You can cover the control surface or wing
of the biggest factors that determines the difficulty of
edge by cementing on an oversize piece of
removing a control surface is whether or not you need to cut
plastic sheet stock. Once dried, you can trim
through or around the hinges. On smaller scale models, you and sand the edges flush. This is easier than
can usually cut through the hinge because the hinges are too
trying to manipulate a tiny piece of sheet
small to be noticed. As with any model build, take a close look
stock that you try to cut to size. Another
at photos of actual aircraft and drawings to ascertain how technique to fill the edges is to fill the entire
much spacing there is between the control surface and the
control surface with two-part casting resin.
wing. Also look at how much they typically deflect so that
Mask the edges to contain the casting resin
your model is a realistic depiction.
and to keep the surfaces neat from and resin
The two most useful tools for removing control surfaces are a spillover. Cut, sand and round the edges
scribe and a razor saw. Control surfaces on plastic models are according to your documentation and photos.
almost always separated from the wing by a deeply engraved
line or indentation.
Start by checking the top and bottom of the wing