Page 24 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

use when connecting a rope to an anchor.

Page 24

Besides being the premier anchor knot, the Figure Eight on a Bight makes a passable

middleman's knot (clip to it with two carabiners having their gates opposed and reversed or, better,
use locking carabiners), although the Butterfly is better, being easier to untie after it has held a hard
load. Likewise, you can use the Figure Eight on a Bight to tie out a short section of rope that has been

damaged; just don't expect the knot to slide through any carabiners.

Tie the Figure Eight on a Bight near the end of a rope, and you can use it to clip a haul line to your
harness.

Common Use s

Anchoring rope to protection

Attaching middleman for glacier travel

Attaching haul line to harness

Secondary Use

Tying out a damaged section of rope

A damaged section of rope tied-out

using the Figure Eight on a Bight.