Page 27 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers
P. 27
Page 27
Figure Eight Follow-Through
The most critical knot for the climber is the one that joins the rope to the harness. If this knot is tied
incorrectly, or the wrong knot is used, all is lost. The failure of the tie-in knot, or that of the climber to
tie in properly to begin with, ranks with anchor failure and rappeling off the end of the rope as a
leading cause of death and injury.
Because your tie-in knot carries such a heavy burden, it must be infallible and easy to tie in all
situations. The Figure Eight Follow-Through fills both orders. It's also easy to learn yet difficult to
forget, and it yields to visual inspectionthis knot looks either right or wrong. That it is difficult to
untie this knot after it has held a high load is the only disadvantage to this knot, and that is a small one
considering the peace of mind it
provides. Those of you who fall frequently and hard, however, should try the Double
Bowline with Jack's Variation. It's equally reliable although more confusing to tie, but it's easy to
untie after holding a fall.
Figure Eight Follow-Through with Overhand backup.
