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A16 FEATURE
Thursday 20 July 2017
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Forests, moors, peat bogs: A week of walking in Scotland

By LYNN DOMBEK floor, zigzags up through
Associated Press woods and descends
GLASGOW, Scotland (AP) through spectacular moor-
— Scotland has more than land toward Loch Tulla. A
two dozen official long-dis- few more miles and we’re
tance trails through moors, out on Rannoch Moor, a
peat bogs and forests. We landscape of peat bogs
chose one of the most and small lakes and sky,
popular, the West Highland surrounded by heather and
Way. mountains. We’re smitten.
As first-time walkers in Scot- The wind is fierce but rain
land, my companion and holds off. For most of the
I used a travel company day we see no one else,
to plan our route, book save our Scottish friends.
accommodations and ar- Guidebooks say this point
range baggage transfers. is as far from civilization as
But we met others who any place on the Way. It
used baggage services feels like it.
and booked their own Day Six: Kings House to Kin-
lodging, along with folks lochleven, 9 miles (14.5 km)
who camped out. We start in sunshine near
Like the wildly variable Scot- Glencoe, feeling like tiny
land landscape, there’s no blips on the massive glen
end of ways to enjoy the This June 31, 2017 photo shows the West Highland Way running from Kings House Hotel near Glen floor surrounded by tow-
Coe Scotland. The West Highland Way is Scotland’s oldest long distance path, running for 95 miles
walks. between Milngavie to Fort William, through pastoral landscapes to the rugged beauty of moors ering peaks. Soon we’re
Walkers we met were a dis- and highlands. cloaked in heavy mist on
parate bunch: young Swiss (Lynn Dombek via AP) the Devil’s Staircase, a zig-
backpackers; mountain- zag ascent to the Way’s
eers from Virginia; a Swed- shore where the path is a highest point at 1,800 feet
ish mother with teenage challenging mix of roots (550 meters). We again
daughters; a Scottish cou- and boulders. Guidebooks miss views of high peaks
ple, world travelers but out describe it as “torturous,” as clouds dip lower, but
to see more of their own despite extraordinary ferns, there’s a soggy beauty. We
country; an extended fam- waterfalls and forests. Six sense the enormous pres-
ily from England ages 16 to hours in, we convince our- ence of the surrounding
50; and a Louisiana couple selves a turn was missed mountains.
celebrating their 50th wed- and wearily head back. Day Seven: Kinlochleven
ding anniversary. We were Then the Day One couple to Fort William, 15 miles (24
mid-50s professionals out appears. The man pulls out km)
for adventure. his GPS to show we’re on Our last day brings excite-
We took lots of walks at track. I sheepishly pocket ment, along with torrential
home to get ready. Know- my map and we’re on our rain and wind. By the time
ing June could be rainy way. We share dinner with we cross the gorgeous but
and cold, we tested gear our new Scottish friends, unforgiving expanse of the
beforehand. Our essentials Stephen and Jane Mc- valley Lairig Mor, we’re
were good boots, breath- This June 26, 2017 photo shows Glengoyne Distillery, established Naughton, at the Drovers soaked. Walkers in pon-
able rain jackets, rain pants in 1833, located in Dumgoyne, Scotland. The distillery is Inn, established in 1705. chos and rain gear flutter in
or shorts, and wool or suit- located 5.5 miles along the first leg of the West Highland Way, a Day Four: Inverarnan to the distance as we splash
able base layers (no cot- convenient location for a wee dram of scotch before continuing Tyndrum, 13.25 miles (21.25 through mud. The peak of
ton!). on the walk. km) Ben Nevis, the United King-
A runner recently set a (Lynn Dombek via AP) We hit old military trails as dom’s tallest mountain, is
record walking the West on to Drymen. We eat that We lunch in Balmaha, a yesterday’s rigors are for- obscured by clouds as we
Highland way in under 14 night at the Clachan Inn, popular resort town, and gotten. The rain is back, as make our final descent into
hours. We did the standard licensed in 1734, seated continue on the rocky are the sheep. We move Fort William. We feel elated
itinerary: 95 miles (150 km) next to a couple who reap- lakeshore path toward the from farmlands to a thickly nonetheless, and lucky to
in seven days. pear on Day Three to save Rowardennan Hotel, a rus- wooded conifer plantation, have experienced a week
THE DAILY ITINERARY us in an uncertain moment. tic lodge. The pub, with its and happily eat lunch on a of such awesome beauty.
Day One: Milngavie to Dry- We’re soundly asleep by 8 corner fireplace, serves as hillside, the mountaintops If You Go... LONG-DISTANCE
men, 12 miles (19 km) p.m. both restaurant and meet- shrouded in mist. Nearing WALKS IN SCOTLAND:
Our first, lovely day transi- Day Two: Drymen to Rowar- ing place for walkers. We Tyndrum we walk through https://www.walkhigh-
tions from Milngavie, a small dennan, 14 miles (22.5 km) exchange stories, and heather, bog myrtle and lands.co.uk/long-distance-
town north of Glasgow, into It’s pouring rain through stumble off to bed. pinewoods. It’s a peace- routes.shtml or http://www.
a pastoral landscape dot- moors and forests, then up Day Three: Rowardennan ful end to the day, despite west-highland-way.co.uk/
ted with sheep and cows, and steeply down Conic to Inverarnan, 14 miles (22.5 having trekked in earshot home.asp .
mossy stone walls and live- Hill on the boundary fault km) of busy route A82. OUTFITTERS AND BAGGAGE
stock gates. The peaceful separating lowland Scot- It’s overcast but no rain. Day Five: Tyndrum to Kings TRANSPORT: https://www.
walking is on mostly well- land from the highlands. We’re now firmly in Rob Roy House, 18.75 miles (29.75 wildernessscotland.com/
worn trails and roads. We In good weather it has country (he’s an 18th cen- km) , https://www.contours.
stop into Glengoyne distill- glorious views of Loch Lo- tury highlands folk hero). Our longest, favorite day. co.uk/index.php or http://
ery for a wee dram, then mond (loch means lake). We’re still on the loch’s The path starts on the glen travel-lite-uk.com/