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Wild Turkeys, Quail, Grouse, and Pheasants 145

it is virtually impossible to give successful diets for each within this chapter. The best approach is
for the rehabilitator to become familiar with the species found in each region and their diets. This
is one reason a history and location where the bird was found is more important for Galliformes
than for most patients. Young patients of these sensitive species will require extra effort to success-
fully raise to release.
Getting youngsters to eat can be challenging. The first food of grouse chicks is ants or other tiny
insects. The rapid movement of an insect attracts chicks, and they are usually stimulated to begin
eating. A large‐sized dog food bowl will work as a miniature habitat for a small shovel of active
ants. Ants can overwhelm youngsters and bite them, so be sure to monitor them well.
Wild grasses or weeds pulled from the ground with some soil left on the root (Hayes 1992) are
very interesting to chicks. Most instinctively begin scratching the roots, eating as they do. Be sure
the grass is safe, nontoxic, and has not been sprayed with pesticide. The act of eating will encour-
age chicks to eat other food offered. Kitten or puppy pellets (Hill’s Science Diet), soaked overnight
in the refrigerator with an equal amount of water, should be offered in a shallow dish. Before serv-
ing, add tiny mealworms, bloodworms, waxworms, tubifex worms, or naturally occurring insects
from the region. Some commercial game farm growers suggest crumbling a red dog treat and using
it to top food. The red color is said to attract the attention of the chicks (Woodward 1993).
If a young patient still refuses to eat despite the above measures, try sprinkling dry baby cereal
or crumbled dried insects on the chicks’ backs. During the natural preening behavior, they will
invariably get some food in their mouths, recognize it as food, and begin eating. If all else fails, use
a drop‐by‐drop method with the emaciation diet described earlier in this chapter. Tube‐feeding can
be used but is stressful to these delicate species.
Water (Hayes 1992) should be provided in shallow nonslip saucer‐like dishes lined with pea
gravel or coarse sand substrate. This prevents the chick from slipping and splaying its legs. Some
sand may also be eaten for grit to aid digestion. Chicks should be prevented from ingesting large
amounts of sand as impacted crops can result. Commercial chick water founts are available at most
farm supply stores and work well. Colorful marbles put in the drinking water prevent tiny game
birds from drowning while attracting interest to the water supply (Hayes 1992; Woodward 1993;
Ritchie et al. 1994). As chicks get older, water and food can be supplied in plant saucers. A good
product for use with wild patients will be sturdy, be made of nonslip and nontoxic materials, and
be easily cleaned.
Once the youngsters begin to eat, continue providing soaked kitten or puppy pellets topped with
small mealworms, tubifex worms, bloodworms, and other insects as a staple diet during the first
month of life. The saturated pellets must be changed several times per day to prevent souring. Add
grasshoppers, crickets, and finally grain as the chicks grow and show interest in new foods. Wild
natural greens cut into tiny bite‐size pieces are a good addition to the diet. Romaine lettuce can also
be used. Cutting the greens into small bits will help prevent large pieces from impacting in their
crops – adults perform this service for chicks in the wild.

Housing

Brooders

Commercial brooders used for chicken or game farms also work well for wild chicks. If the brooder
has been used in the past for domestic species, clean and sterilize it well. Many wild species are
highly susceptible to diseases found in domestic chickens and turkey poults. Commercial brooders