Page 161 - Hand rearing birds second
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146  Hand-Rearing Birds

            are designed to brood many chicks at a time and may not be the best choice if you have only a few
            to rear.
              If only a few chicks are in care, a smaller setup may be more practical. A clean cardboard box,
            16 × 20 × 20 in. (40 × 50 × 50 cm), or plastic storage container is a good option. A clip‐on reflector
            heat lamp, found in the hardware section of many stores, should be firmly secured on one side of
            the box. A 40–60‐W incandescence bulb is usually adequate to provide a temperature of 95–99 °F
            (35–37.2 °C). Check the temperature under the heat lamp and move the lamp either up or down to
            reach the correct temperature.
              Single chicks rarely survive. For that reason, it may be helpful during the first few days of con-
            finement  to  house  the  chick  with  a  day‐old  bantam  chick  or  older  chicks  to  lower  stress  and
            encourage eating. However, be aware of the possibility of bacterial, viral, or other infectious dis-
            eases that can be transferred in these cases. It is recommended that any domestic fowl be from a
            closed flock or vaccinated for common diseases before they come into contact even briefly with a
            wild individual.
              Mixed‐age housing has advantages and disadvantages that must be weighed. Older chicks may
            suffocate, injure, or not allow newly hatched young to feed. Use care if this is the only option for
            housing. Older chicks that have begun to eat on their own may encourage and teach younger ones
            how to eat and drink. Observe the birds carefully for any aggression and separate immediately if it
            occurs. Networking with other rehabilitators is suggested and very helpful with housing multiple
            species or varied ages.
              A windup alarm clock (alarm disabled), a “womb” or white noise sound product, or mirror
            with a clean feather duster or cotton mop head (Ritchie et al. 1994) may be helpful to provide
            the youngster with a substitute parent figure. If using a feather duster, make certain no chemi-
            cals or preservatives have been used. Toxic fumes may result when chemically‐treated feathers
            become wet. Synthetic feathers may be the safest for this use. White muslin fabric placed on top
            of the substrate during the first week of life allows the caregiver to observe the feces and be
            alert to digestive problems or whether the young birds are eating. The fabric also helps prevent
            chicks from developing an impacted crop by ingesting large amounts of plant material or sand.
            Other substrates that work well for the brooder can be coarse sand, pea gravel, clean soil, or
            natural dry leaf litter. A firm substrate will prevent young birds’ legs from slipping and splaying
            out. Fine sand can cause eye problems in young chicks. Wood shavings (not cedar), or natural
            leaf litter from the chick’s natural habitat combined with pea gravel can be used as substrate as
            the chicks mature.
              No matter what substrate is used, it must be kept clean and dry to prevent bacterial growth and
            disease. Some people suggest wooden boxes; although they work well, they retain moisture and are
            more difficult to sanitize after use (Woodward 1993).
              The behavior of the chicks will be the guide as to whether the temperature is too warm or cold.
            Chicks that are too cold will huddle under the heat lamp and hesitate to come out to eat or drink.
            If they are too hot, they will droop their wings and stand away from the lamp. A heat lamp on one
            side of the box enables them to choose to stay close or move away from the heat if needed.
              As chicks develop and become more active, they will require larger and taller brooder boxes and
            lower temperatures. Lower the temperature in 5 °F (2.8 °C) increments weekly, or more quickly if
            chicks display signs of being too hot. Many Galliformes chicks can fly within a few days to a week
            of hatch. For that reason, a top for the brooder box is essential to keep the chicks inside. Chicks will
            need to remain under a brooder for 5–6 weeks. When they are fully feathered, they may be moved
            to an outdoor area. A supplemental heat source and protected indoor area must remain available
            in cooler climates until the birds have acclimated completely.
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