Page 117 - Buck Tilton "Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches"

Ropes, Knots, and Hitches

Loop Knot

tHe quICKeSt And SIMpLeSt LOOp In tHe
MIddLe Of A ROpe, And fOR eMeRgenCy
“RepAIR” Of A dAMAged ROpe
When something needs to be attached midrope,
the loop knot works well. This knot is important for
shortening and keeping a damaged rope functional.
With the damaged part in the middle of the knot,
at the top of the bight, it is put under no strain.
Using a knot to “strengthen” a damaged rope is
an emergency measure to prevent the rope from
failing before the climb has ended. Be warned:
Any damaged climbing rope needs to be replaced
as soon as possible. And also be warned: The loop
knot is not designed to bear critical weight. For a
critical weight-bearing midrope knot, use the alpine
butterfly (see page 103).

Loop Knot: Step 1 Loop Knot: Step 2

Form a bight in the rope. Tie an overhand knot (see page
6) in the bight. Tighten by pull-
ing slowly on the loop and the
main sections of the rope.

102

OB_RopesKnots_RevFinal_CS4.indd 102 2/9/12 3:14 PM