Page 118 - Buck Tilton "Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches"
P. 118

Climbing Knots: Loops






                     Alpine	Butterfly


                     fORMS A fIxed LOOp In tHe
                     StAndIng pARt Of A ROpe
                     This knot with the loveliest of names creates
                     a fixed loop at any point in a rope, a loop to
                     which anything may be clipped or otherwise
                     attached. It is often used in climbing as a knot
                     to  which  a  climber  may  be  attached  to  the
                     rope. It is especially popular in glacier travel,
                     where  it  is  common  to  find  three  climbers
                     attached to one rope, one climber at each end
                     and one in the middle.





                            Alpine Butt XXrfly: Step 1        Alpine Butter
                                     e
                                                                      XXfly: Step 2
















                       W
                       XXXrap the rope around your left   Move the turn closest to your
                                                          XXX
                       hand twice, as shown in the       fingertips to lie between the
                       photograph.                       other two turns.








                                                                                    103








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