Page 75 - The Pocket Guide to Equine Knots

rope is more slippery, however, so five or six tucks are a good idea
The very same procedure can be used for splicing two three-strand ropes together,

creating a much nicer connection than merely tying them. Splices were always preferred on
sailing ships because a neat splice can run through a pulley block. The procedure is the
same as we used for the eye splice, but now we unravel the ends of each rope for six or
eight inches. Again, tape or burn the ends of each strand (depending on the type of rope) to
hold them together and make threading them through the standing portions of the rope

easier, and put a wrap of tape around each rope to prevent further unraveling.
Now place the two ropes together end to end, mating their unraveled strands, placing
them so that the intact portions are touching. Tape the two together at this point. Now

proceed to splice one of the ropes to the other by the very same method you used for the
eye splice, alternating tucks over and under into the solid portion of the adjoining rope.
When you’ve completed going in one direction, go in the other. Finally, roll the splice under
your boot and trim off any strands that protrude. For synthetic ropes, half a dozen tucks in
each direction will do the trick.

Such a splice is amazingly strong. As kids, we used to buy what were called Chinese
handcuffs or finger traps. Younger kids were encouraged to insert their fingers in each end
of these woven tubes. Upon pulling, the tubes tightened and held their fingers fast. The

strength of a spliced rope is similar. Pressure tightens all the woven strands upon each
other. The strength is nearly that of an undamaged rope, and the splice is much neater than
any knot that could similarly join the two ropes. It’s comforting to know that if a mishap
requires you to cut a sling rope on your packsaddle (because a horse or mule is down,
perhaps, with the sling knot underneath it) you could repair the rope with a splice in very

short order.

Lead Ropes

To add to the techniques learned so far, we can make lead ropes out of any three-strand
rope, making them as long as we wish, with or without adding a snap. I like to make them
at least ten feet long, so starting with a piece of rope eleven to twelve feet long is about
right. For a permanent snap, we simply insert the end of the rope through the ring on the

snap, then weave an eye splice containing it in the loop. Do make sure you purchase bull
snaps or sliding snaps that have swivels built in. I recently pulled a bull snap off my shop
wall, still in its packaging, and found it had no swivel. For a lead rope such a snap is
useless.

But sometimes it’s preferable to simply tie in an eye splice without a snap. Now, as
mentioned earlier, you have an option. When you wish to use a snap, merely poke the end
of the eye splice through the ring on the snap (step 1), and then insert the snap back
through the loop of the eye splice (step 2).

The connection is secure (step 3), and the snap can be easily removed.
If you prefer to ride with the lead rope attached to a halter under your bridle, leave the
snap off. Insert the eye splice through the ring on the halter and bring the other end of the
lead rope through the eye splice, pulling the whole rope through. Such a connection is quiet,

free of the metal-on-metal sound of a snap, and also light and less likely to interfere with