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Places in Israel

Eve Harow

THE HILLS OF

Gofna

ne of the practical reasons Natural caves in the hills served as astonishingly, the only time from the
that Modi’in is such a popular burial places during the Hasmonean and First Temple period until 1948 (5708)
O city to live in today – many Second Temple era (approx. 517 BCE to that the Jews were in charge of their own
access roads leading to main highways 70 CE). Here was a center of a Second destiny in Eretz Yisrael.
commensurate with its central location Temple era olive oil culture that is now
in a wide, open valley – actually made making a comeback with new awareness Just before Harasha is a hill called Givat
it a terrible place from which to wage a and varieties in Israel. Hence, it is olive HaYekevim. Yekev is now synonymous
guerrilla war. As the Greek Seleucids oil that naturally frames the context of with winery, but it really means a place
approached from Antioch in today’s Chanukah, which celebrates the military where liquids are stored and so could
Turkey (hence Antiochus Epiphanus, and spiritual victory over enemies from apply to oil as well. Marked trails lead to
the villain of Chanukah…) nearly within and without. springs and remains of unique ancient
2,200 years ago, the Chashmonaim oil presses (batei bad), underground
(Hasmoneans) had to take to the hills. In ancient days it was a hugely important columbaria (dovecotes; think carrier
staple and economic commodity with pigeons, Temple sacrifices, food and
The Hills of Gofna. its uses for food, cosmetics, lamps, fertilizer) and ladders leading into the
trade and religious ritual. The month earth. These go into some of the 31
One of Israel’s most beautiful areas of Kislev marks the end of the Land of bell-shaped caves carved out to store
is tucked into a gorge running on a Israel’s olive harvest (קי ִּ ס ַ מ), hence the wine amphorae during the First Temple
predominately east-west axis just north availability of fresh olives to be pressed period. They were later connected by
of today’s well-known route #443 to pure for the Temple’s rededication tunnels and served as secret hiding
Jerusalem. Driving past Chashmonaim, ceremony and relighting of the Menorah places from the Romans during the
Lapid and Kiryat Sefer on #446 one as a symbol of political sovereignty and revolts of 66-73 and 132-135. Great for
enters the area called Harei Gofna, the religious freedom in 164 BCE. exploration; flashlights recommended.
municipal area of Western Binyamin,
stretching from Nili in the west to the Today, Nili, Na’ale, Talmon, Neria, During Chanukah, the Binyamin
mountain pass of Wadi Haramiya on Dolev, Zayit Ra’anan, Nachliel and Givat Tourism Division recreates the
the Patriarch’s Route/Road 60 in the Harasha (with its incredible view of the Hasmonean period with mosaic
east. coast from Ashkelon to Netanya and workshops, pottery restoration, mock
Ben-Gurion International Airport) are Jews-Greeks battles and other activities Vineyard photo: Yair Aronshtam (Wikipedia)
The Dolev stream flowing to the just some of the modern communities to bring the holiday to life. The sound of
Mediterranean Sea provides it with a that dot this region. Further north and children enjoying themselves rings out
fantastic amount of underground water, east are Neve Tzuf and Ateret, and just in the hills of Gofna.
hence springs and pools abound. One across Wadi Haramiya is Mount Ba’al
can feel the sheltering nature of the Hatzor, where Yehuda HaMaccabi was We’re back where we belong as past,
area while driving, and sections of a killed in battle. present and future merge in the land
Roman road meander along the valley. given to Binyamin.
Agricultural mountain terracing is Indeed, a visit to Western Binyamin is a Photo of Eve Harow: Orot Hacarmel
everywhere, with ubiquitous olive trees step into the world of the few who took Eve Harow is a licensed Israeli tour
and vineyards (gefanim, source of the on the many, a revolt that ended with a guide and member of the Mizrachi
area’s name) clinging to the slopes. critical century of Jewish sovreignty and, Speakers Bureau.

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