Page 178 - The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent

The Imperial Wardrobe

he Ottoman world is probably best known for its produc- The history of Bursa's textile industry can be reconstructed
Ttion of sumptuous textiles that were woven with shim- from a series of decrees issued by the sultans in an attempt to
mering silk and metallic threads. Exquisitely decorated satins regulate the prices of goods and to control their quality.
and velvets were cherished by both the Ottomans and the Called ihtisab, these laws or regulations were dispatched to
Europeans who considered them luxury items that reflected the kadi (judicial officer) of Bursa, who was responsible for
the majesty of kings and the wealth of their courts. Sewn into their enforcement. 2 These documents indicate that there were
garments or used as furnishings, they were displayed in cere- over a thousand silk looms in Bursa by 1500. 3 During the
monial functions, preserved in treasuries, given as gifts, and early sixteenth century, the palace relied on Bursa's industry
demanded as tribute. and purchased large quantities of textiles, some of which
Silk always has been an expensive and desirable commod- were made into kaftans kept in the Hazine, as observed in an
ity; it was brought from distant lands and required highly inventory taken in 1505. 4 Listed in this inventory are thirty
specialized and laborious techniques of processing, spinning, kaftans, together with other types of garments and furnish-
dyeing, and weaving; it feels sensuous against the skin but is ings made of brocaded silks and velvets produced in Bursa;
very durable and can be woven with the most intricate pat- there were, in addition, several other textiles identified as
terns, rendered in brilliant jewellike colors. Its trade routes European and Iranian.
and markets were zealously guarded and fought over, since Bursa cloths were also highly regarded in Iran, which was
whoever controlled its commercial activities and industrial the major source of silk. It is interesting to note that Selim I's
centers reaped significant financial benefits. booty taken in 1514 from Tabriz included ninety-one gar-
The Ottoman Empire was strategically located on the path ments made of Bursa textiles 5 but no Iranian silks, which
of the east-west silk route bridging Asia and Europe. Silk, suggests that the Safavids preferred Ottoman products to their
transported by caravans from Iran, passed through Anatolia own. These fine fabrics were also prized in Europe and ex-
as far as Bursa, where Europeans, mostly Italians, purchased ported as far as Sweden. 6
the goods. Bursa was the major center for the international Bursa continued to supply the palace with textiles even
silk trade during the early sixteenth century and provided after imperial societies of weavers were established in Istan-
substantial revenues to the state by customs, taxes, and bro- bul. The imperial weavers could not keep up with the de-
kerage fees levied from the Iranian and Italian merchants; in mands of the court in the early sixteenth century; in 1518
addition, it developed its own textile industry. 1 The protection Selim I sent an order to the kadi of Bursa for immediate de-
of this lucrative trade was of great interest to the sultans and livery of 750 bolts of satins and brocaded silks, together with
was in part responsible for the wars with the Safavids sashes. 7 Court weavers appear to have specialized in produc-
throughout the sixteenth century. ing brocades and velvets used for ceremonial kaftans, while
Most of the raw silk that arrived in Bursa was sold to Eu- furnishings continued to be purchased from Bursa. This is
ropeans, but some was reserved for domestic use. Although confirmed by lists of expenses incurred by the palace, two of
silk began to be produced in Bursa in the second half of the which, dated 1540/1541 and 1586, include large quantities of
sixteenth century, its output was insufficient to supply the de- velvet upholstery fabrics and floor coverings. 8
mand, and the Ottoman world continued to rely on imported Sultanic decrees sent to the kadi of Bursa make fascinating
raw material both for its domestic needs and for resale. reading. The sultans were concerned with retaining the high
quality of production while restricting the price which, due to
Detail, 114 the increase in the cost of raw materials, forced the weavers

177