Page 180 - The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent

however, a fragmentary silk brocade floor covering made of starch often applied to the backs, making them extremely
three loom widths (see 150), each at least 100 centimeters stiff. The tailors who worked on these garments must have
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(39 /8 inches) wide, its original length thought to be 800 cen- used strong needles and threads and developed special sew-
timeters (315 inches, or 26 feet 3 inches). A second example ing techniques.
is a complete velvet spread sewn from four loom widths (see The sultans also used shorter kaftans over §alvars, particu-
152), each 69 centimeters (27Vs inches) wide and 490 centi- larly when riding. Sometimes they wore pants called çakçir,
meters (193 inches, or 16 feet 1 inch) long. Even though which had cotton or linen socks attached to the ankles; or
these examples appear to have been specially designed as dizlik (leggings), which were either provided with socks or
floor coverings with woven borders, they demonstrate that had stirruplike bands to slip over boots or shoes. While richly
imperial looms could produce cloth more than twenty-six feet patterned brocaded silks were worn during official and cere-
long. Different looms must have been employed for palace monial functions, daily garments of the sultans were made of
furnishings, as seen in the silk brocade piece mentioned monochrome silks, some of which were plain, others woven
above, which is considerably wider than other known exam- with supplemental twills, stamped with gold and silver, or
ples. Velvet looms also appear to have varied; one of the textured with moiré patterns. They also used wool, leather,
largest was used to weave a çintemani cushion (see 154), and fur overcoats as well as cloaks made of wool broadcloth
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that is 78.1 centimeters (30 /4 inches) wide. 13 It appears that or mohair woven from the hair of the famous Ankara goats,
different widths and lengths of cloths were manufactured to at times decorated with moiré patterns. Some of the cloaks
serve specific needs. were hooded, fastened in the front with buttons and loops at-
The majority of fine silks produced by court weavers must tached to bands, and trimmed with fringed edges.
have been designated for imperial kaftans, hundreds of which The imperial headdress consisted of a large turban made of
were preserved in the Topkapi Palace. These are but a small highly refined cotton or linen and wrapped around a tall cap.
percentage of the garments made for the sultans, their wives, During Süleyman's reign turbans worn by the sultan and the
sons, daughters, palace officials, and staff members. The sul- administrators were ovoid, while those of the ulema were
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tans wore an inner robe called entari and an outer robe called more voluminous and spherical. The imperial turban
kaftan, which is commonly used to define both garments. 14 changed slightly in the seventeenth century, becoming more
The inner robe opened at the front, fastened along the bodice angular at the top. 16
with a series of corded buttons and loops, and was held at Accessories of the sultans and their families, such as sashes,
the waist by a belt or a sash. Its sleeves were either wrist- handkerchiefs, turban covers, headbands, and bohças (squares
length or cut at the elbows and provided with buttons to used to wrap clothing as well as gifts), generally made of cot-
which a kolluk (separate sleeves) could be attached. Worn ton or linen and heavily embroidered with silk and metallic
under the inner robe were either an etek (skirt) or a calvar threads, were produced by the society of the zerduz. They
(loose pants gathered at the ankles by buttons or loops). were a small and elite group, numbering five to seven mem-
Some inner robes were collarless, others had narrow stand- bers between 1526 and 1566. The sultans' underwear, pro-
up collars; their side seams were either straight or projected duced by yet another society, consisted of silk as well as cot-
at the hips, provided with in-seam pockets, and at times slit ton and linen nightgowns, shirts, undershirts, underpants,
at the hem. The outer robe was generally cut in the same and stockings.
manner and had elbow-length sleeves that exposed the inner Both men and women appear to have worn similar gar-
garment or the detachable kolluk. The buttons and loops in ments. Since only the sultans' clothes were preserved in the
the front were attached to embroidered bands sewn onto the Topkapi Palace, the outfits worn by women during the six-
bodice; although none have survived, there are references to teenth century are not well known. As observed in a few
jeweled buttons and bands used on some examples. The contemporary paintings, such as Arifi's history of the Otto-
outer robe was rarely buttoned and hung loosely. A type man dynasty 17 and Ravzat el-U§ak (see 34), court ladies wore
called merasim kaftam (ceremonial robe) was provided with inner and outer robes with jeweled belts and caps with ker-
floor-length sleeves that hung at the back and had slits at the chiefs and headbands. 18
shoulders through which the arms passed. Kaftans had a special significance in the Ottoman world
Both the inner and outer robes were lined and embellished and were presented as gifts to heads of state, visiting ambas-
with bands of contrasting silk placed around the openings. sadors, high officials, and esteemed artisans. The presenta-
The outer robes could also be padded, quilted, and lined with tion of hilats (robes of honor) was an Islamic tradition that
fur, which was at times rendered in patterns; a number of ex- reached its epitome under the Ottomans. These hilats, made
amples have small and delicate appliqués on the inner cor- of the most expensive fabrics, were placed over the shoulders
ners of the hem, which may have been the tailors' marks. of dignitaries, who sometimes received two or more of these
The entaris were made of soft and lightweight silks, whereas garments. John Zápolya, Süleyman's vassal in Hungary, is
the kaftans were of tightly woven and heavy fabrics with reported to have been given four such garments when he

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