Page 23 - Our Hawker Stories

Singapore’s hawker culture is a unique and vibrant
reflection of the nation’s multicultural heritage. It is
more than just a place to eat; it’s a way of life, built on
hard work, community, and food traditions passed down
through generations. Hawker centres play a key role in
Singapore’s social and culinary identity.

The roots of hawker culture can be traced back to the
1800s, during Singapore’s early colonial days. The city
was overcrowded and unsanitary, with street hawkers
selling food in makeshift stalls or from pushcarts. Back
then, public health was poor, and people were even
paid to catch rats to control the pest problem. By 1903,
the number of hawkers had grown so much that the
government started regulating them. In 1908, hawker
shelters were introduced, allowing stallholders to rent
space with access to water and electricity. These shelters
laid the foundation for the modern hawker centres we
know today.

A personal story close to my heart is that of my Another special place is East Coast Lagoon Food
grandparents, who were part of this rich hawker legacy. Village, which was redeveloped in the early 2000s. My
They worked at the Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre, grandparents’ friend still runs a drinks stall there, selling
where my grandmother was the boss of her stall. She traditional Singaporean desserts, canned drinks, and
started to work as a helper in one of the street hawkers sugar cane juice. She once told me about the tough time
selling mixed vegetable rice “Cai Fan” at just 15 years she had juggling the stall while caring for her daughter.
old, and had her stall subsequently in Bedok Interchange One day, while cutting sugar cane, she accidentally
Hawker Centre. She continued working until she was 48. injured herself using the machine. She had to close her
Every day, she would arrive by 6 am and leave around stall for several days, resulting in lost income and pain,
9 pm, working 7 days a week without any breaks. She yet she returned as soon as she could, showing true
cooked about 40 different dishes daily, with help from hawker spirit.
her assistants who handled washing dishes, vegetables,
and meat. Despite the harsh conditions, she and my Singapore’s hawker culture is a living history, shaped
grandparents raised an entire family with their earnings. by the stories and sacrifices of everyday people like my
My grandmother gave birth to her first child at 24, her family. Their dedication, struggles, and passion continue
second at 27, and my mother at 29. to flavour the rich and diverse food culture we proudly
celebrate today.
The environment was hot and exhausting, and my
grandmother often relied on sweet or sports drinks to
stay hydrated and awake, something that unfortunately “My grandmother cooked 40 dishes a day,
affected her health in later years. But her dedication and working from dawn to night — her dedication
perseverance are part of what makes hawker culture so
meaningful to me. is the true taste of our hawker heritage.”

One of the most interesting hawker centres today is Mien Peh
Maxwell Food Centre. It started as a wet market in the
1920s and became a cooked food centre in 1928. Initially, P4 Steadfastness
many hawkers were unwilling to move in, but it survived Chongzheng Primary School
even the Japanese occupation from 1942 to 1945. Today,
it stands as a symbol of resilience.

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