Page 67 - HAIR COLOUR

varying colours were in the natural hair showed through the hair dye
giving a more natural look. A truly amazing breakthrough.

Translucent hair dye created short term problems. First time colour was
not a problem at all but if a client was having her regrowth done and the
old colour was not translucent then it looked as though the colour had not
taken on the roots when it was wet. The next time the client came to have
her regrowth done you could clearly see white roots which meant, that it
had taken last time, if you continue in this way you will have two
different colours for quite some time until all the old colour grows out.

The colourist who knew his stuff consulted with the client, explained
about translucent colour and told her it would be necessary to bleach out
the old colour before they could change to translucent colouring. Today
all colours are translucent allowing natural depths and tone to show
through.

“This is all very well but I have a client who keeps complaining and
asking me why I can not get absolute coverage of all her white hair” The
answer is you never will because of all of the above, hair dye no longer
paints all hair the same colour, it is made to be translucent and translucent
is what you get, do not be persuaded that you can get round this by a
method know as pre-softening the hair first as you may have heard
suggested.

Pre-softening is when the hair is covered with plain 6% hydrogen
peroxide; left for thirty minutes and then the target colour mixed with 6%
hydrogen peroxide is applied over the top for the full development time.
In reality the hair dye is translucent and you are not able to change that,

as that is how it is formulated and all that peroxide is just going to give
you a major fade problem over the next six weeks.

Summary:
Permanent hair dye penetrates beneath the cuticle layers and dyes both
the entire cortex and the cuticle scales. Hair dye is hair dye and can not be
used to lift another colour hair dye. Hair dye is permanent and remains in
the hair until it grows out and is cut off. Never carry out the hair dye
process without a 48 hour skin test. 6% hydrogen peroxide activates hair
dye, 9% hydrogen peroxide will lift the clients natural base shade one
shade at the same time while dyeing the hair.

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