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                                                                                     PEOPLE & ARTS Monday 30 July 2018
            Fashion spotlight shines again for 1980s designer Dapper Dan




            By DEEPTI HAJELA                                                                                                    ally considered."
            NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  In  hip-                                                                                        Dapper  Dan  insists  what
            hop's golden era, the artists                                                                                       he  was  doing  wasn't  a
            responsible for rap's distinc-                                                                                      knock-off. He wasn't like the
            tive sound went to Harlem                                                                                           people  who  were  making
            fashion  designer  Dapper                                                                                           counterfeit bags and belts.
            Dan for the period's equally                                                                                        His  creations  were  "knock-
            distinctive look.                                                                                                   ups," he said.
            Now  the  fashion  ground-                                                                                          "I  was  creating  things  that
            breaker,  who  spent  more                                                                                          when  somebody  wore  it,
            than  two  decades  out  of                                                                                         they  knew,  'Oh,  no,  Gucci
            the public eye, is back.                                                                                            doesn't  even  make  pants
            He's got a partnership with                                                                                         and jackets and overcoats
            Gucci  and  the  likes  of  Be-                                                                                     and things,'" at least not the
            yonce among those wear-                                                                                             way he was doing it.
            ing  his  designs,  like  the  lo-                                                                                  By the late 1980s, when his
            goed jacket that is part of                                                                                         clients  also  included  Mike
            her costumes in her current                                                                                         Tyson, who got into a fight
            tour with her husband, Jay-                                                                                         with another fighter at Dap-
            Z.                                                                                                                  per Dan's store, the brands
            It's a situation that Dapper                                                                                        had  started  to  bring  their
            Dan  calls  "amazing"  and                                                                                          power to bear against him.
            that  observers  say  is  a  re-  In this Thursday, July 19, 2018 photo, designer Dapper Dan is seen during an interview at his atelier   There  were  legal  orders
            flection  of  how  hip-hop   in the Harlem neighborhood of New York.                                                and  raids,  including  one
            and  street style  have  influ-                                                                    Associated Press  by Fendi, whose lawyer for
            enced global fashion, with                                                                                          anti-counterfeiting   efforts
            him among the innovators.    changed.                     Louis Vuitton among others  also  were  used  in  every-  was Sonia Sotomayor, now
            The  couturier,  whose  real  As  a  young  man  with  a  — without the brands' per-   thing from suits to car interi-  on the U.S. Supreme Court.
            name  is  Daniel  Day,  now  reputation  for  sharp  dress-  mission.                  ors, in styles and silhouettes  After  his  store  closed  in
            has  a  new  Gucci-spon-     ing,  "my  first  intention  was  He  saw  the  pull  of  luxury  that  the  labels  themselves  1992  because  of  the  legal
            sored  workshop  in  a  Har-  to transform myself through  and  brand  names  and  weren't even doing.              pressures, he said, he went
            lem  brownstone,  not  far  clothes," he said. "I took that  came  up  with  the  idea  of  "This  is  kind  of  the  story  of  "underground," with private
            from the now-closed 125th  same  concept  in  opening  putting  the  logos  people  hip-hop,"  said  Erik  Nielson,  clients including Floyd May-
            Street  boutique  that  once  up  a  store,  transforming  coveted  from  bags  and  an  associate  professor  at  weather.
            clothed Salt-N-Pepa, Eric B.  people. When Gucci came  luggage  on  clothes  to  be  the University of Richmond,  The     Gucci    partnership
            & Rakim and LL Cool J.       along,  I  saw  the  opportu-  worn.                      in Richmond, Virginia, who  came  about  after  Gucci's
            His  operation  now  is  a  nity  to  do  this  element  of  "None  of  the  big  brands  teaches  African-American  creative  director,  Alessan-
            different  one  from  the  transformation  on  a  larger  were  making  coats  and  pop  culture.  "Dapper  Dan  dro  Michele,  put  on  the
            24-hour-per-day  shop  that  scale."                      jackets.  That  wasn't  avail-  took  something  that  was  runway in May 2017 a jack-
            turned  out  custom-made  Dapper Dan's outfits in the  able,"  Dapper  Dan  said.  there.  He  arguably  made  et  that  was  strikingly  remi-
            jackets  for  those  early  rap  1980s were original designs  That  "left  the  whole  field  it better. ... He showed the  niscent of one Dapper Dan
            superstars, but Dapper Dan  embossed with designer lo-    open for me."                brands all these possibilities  created  in  the  1980s  using
            said  some  things  haven't  gos from Gucci, Fendi and  His  logo-draped  fabrics  it's clear they had never re-    another brand's logo.q

            Next 'Star Wars' film to use unreleased Fisher footage




            Associated Press             Luke Skywalker, will also ap-  "Rogue  One,"  was  not  an
            LOS ANGELES (AP) — Carrie  pear  in  the  film,  which  for  option.
            Fisher is not done with "Star  the moment is simply called  "With the support and bless-
            Wars"  after  all  —  Lucasfilm  "Episode IX." It is scheduled  ing  from  her  daughter,  Bil-
            says unreleased footage of  to  be  released  in  Decem-  lie,  we  have  found  a  way
            the  actress  will  be  used  in  ber 2019.               to  honor  Carrie's  legacy
            the  next  installment  of  the  Fisher  died  in  December  and role as Leia in Episode
            "Star  Wars"  saga  to  draw  2016 after she finished work  IX by using unseen footage
            her  character's  story  to  an  on the middle installment in  we shot together in Episode
            end.                         the  trilogy,  "The  Last  Jedi."  VII."Friday's announcement
            The studio and writer-direc-  Director Rian Johnson opt-  also  confirmed  that  Billy
            tor J.J. Abrams announced  ed  not  alter  her  storyline,  Dee Williams will be return-
            Friday that footage of Fish-  leaving  Leia's  fate  to  be  ing to the franchise as Lan-
            er shot for 2015's "Star Wars:  handled by Abrams.        do Calrissian, a hero of the
            The Force Awakens" will be  "We desperately loved Car-    rebellion  who  hasn't  been
            used in the ninth film in the  rie Fisher," Abrams said in a  seen in the latest trilogy.
            space opera's core trilogies  statement.  "Finding  a  truly  Also returning to the film are
            about the Skywalker family  satisfying conclusion to the  Daisy  Ridley,  Oscar  Isaac,
            that  includes  Fisher's  char-  Skywalker saga without her  John Boyega and Kelly Ma-
            acter, Leia.                 eluded us."                  rie Tran, who all play heroes.
            Filming is scheduled to be-  He  said  recasting  Fisher  Adam Driver and Domhnall     In this Monday, Oct. 10, 2016, file photo, actress Carrie Fisher
            gin  Wednesday  at  Lon-     or  recreating  her  using  Gleeson,  who  play  villains   attends  a  special  screening  of,  "Bright  Lights:  Starring  Carrie
            don's Pinewood Studios.      computer     graphics,   as  in  the  latest  films,  are  also   Fisher and Debbie Reynolds," at Alice Tully Hall in New York.
            Mark  Hamill,  who  plays  was  done  in  a  spinoff  film  returning.q                                                         Associated Press
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