Page 71 - Issue 48

if not done properly. you can adjust fore & aft to the
Measure & cut original tenth of a degree.
frame rails off where deemed > For this measurement
necessary. you can also use any surface on
Usually 2-3 inches in front of the spindle that may be perfectly
fi rewall is the best for re-welding perpendicular (vertical) to the
other subframe on without having ground.
to work under the cab too much. >> If you have any doubts on the
But it depends on your specifi c caster for your particular subframe,
measurements. You can use a I recommend taking measurements
sawzall, cutoff grinder, plasma, 8” tall on each side. Why 8”? The DO NOT use a bubble level. Even of the caster on the original vehicle
torch or whatever makes the most 2” difference is to account for the variations as small as tenth of a before removing the subframe from
sense for you. weighted compression of a coil degree can make a huge impact that vehicle, but that’s not always
Determine how high you spring when the motor & front clip on the fi nished ride. I always use an option.
want the car to sit when fi nished. is all on top of the subframe. digital levels as they are much more Once the caster is set, block the
Measure based on the original >> Of course, if you are doing precise (but only if your fl oor is subframe (front & rear) so it cannot
frame rail under the body of the airbags, you can somewhat ignore perfectly level!) rotate, and then access what you
car, just a few inches from where this 2” drop…. You will want to Caster of the subframe MUST be need to do to combine the original
you cut off the end. If you want work off of the “ride height” set backwards 2 or more degrees frame and subframe at the joint.
the frame rail at this point to be 6” measurement you have chosen >> Caster allows the steering to
off the ground, then set the frame and have the lower arm as close to “self-align” so wandering doesn’t
rails on a jack stand or wood blocks parallel to the ground as possible at occur when driving.
that ride height. > The only con of setting
Mount the exact tire it too far back is less steering
size/rim that you want on the new responsiveness.
subframe. >> Use a steel ruler or piece of
Roll the subframe up to straight steel to form a line between
the car & start eyeballing what you the upper and lower balljoints.
will need to do to make it line up. Attach a digital angle meter (I use
NOTE: Here it is crucial that you the Mittler bros one pictured) and
>> If your subframe has or will
need a “Kick up” or “Z” in it, you
will have to fi gure out how to do
that. If both surfaces are blocked
exactly where you want them, just
measure and cut the fi ller pieces
that you need.
>> I use a Mittler bros digital
protractor to determine the exact
angle of the kickup piece needed
and then base my cuts off of that
angle.
Measure, measure &
measure again! This is the most
important part of your car. It will

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68x73tinman.indd 71 2/18/18 2:12 PM