Page 277 - Brion Toss - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice

TIG Cotters
Turnbuckle-stud cotter pins are tough to install, rods 90 degrees toward each other. Finish by bending
because you have to bend them back so far to keep the rods together at the studs, so the ends roll inside,
them from gouging passersby. And even then you out of traffic. No tape needed—and they look sleek.
have to tape over the ends. A much cleaner method
involves stainless steel TIG (tungsten inert gas) weld- Source: T. Tracy
3
ing rod. It’s a flux-free rod. Ask for ⁄32-inch (1.6 mm Better Boat, Vol. 9, pg. 13
or 2.4 mm) diameter rod for most yacht-size turn-
buckles. You can get it in Type 316 if you like shiny
objects, but I prefer it in silicon bronze; it’s easier to
work, and it turns a classy patina green.
To make a TIG cotter, bend one end of a rod
to get an “L” shape. The bar of the L needs to be
1
about 1 ⁄2 inches longer than the diameter of the
turnbuckle stud. Insert the bar into the bottom cotter
hole, mark where the rod passes the top cotter hole,
then take the rod out and bend it just a bit below
the mark. If you choose the right spot, the horizontal
parts will slide into their respective holes. A very little
practice will show you where to make the bend.
Cut the upper leg so it’s the same length as the
lower, making a “C” shape, then file any sharp cor-
ners off.
To install the cotter, insert the “C” into the cotter
holes. Using a pair of pliers, bend just the tips of the

Halyard Reeving rigging should be sorted and clearly labeled. Have
spare pins, cotters, and shackles on hand.
To reeve an internal halyard into a mast in place: Is the mast ready? See that all hardware and
Tie one end of a piece of mast-length flag halyard
stock to the halyard. Tie the other end to a 2-foot fittings are in place, their locations checked against
piece of bicycle chain. Lean the boat over to the the sail plan and common sense. Check all bolts
side the halyard will run on. Go aloft and feed the for tightness, cotter pins for security, and in-mast
chain over the sheave. The chain’s weight will pull
the flag halyard down. When the chain reaches sheaves for smooth running. If there are mast hoops,
its exit, the deck crew can use a bent piece of TIG are they on? Are there enough? Count sail eyelets.
welding rod or the like to fish it out. A magnet can Imagine the mast in place, and check the lead and
also work. The flag halyard then gets tied to the
reeving eye to pull the halyard in. location of everything against that image. Take a
To reeve an internal halyard with the mast few minutes at this; things sometimes get inexpli-
down: Turn the mast so the halyard sheave you cably out of place, and it’s much easier to fix them
want is down. Remove the masthead and run a now than later.
messenger or the halyard into the sheave. Slide
a mast-length piece of standing rigging up to the Stand on deck and imagine everything working.
sheave. Attach a messenger or the halyard and Will it work? Cast a critical eye on deck leads, winch
pull back. Use the same procedure to reeve lines locations, and fitting clearances.
in booms.
Get together tools and items such as marline,
seizing wire, and lanolin, to name a few. (More will
Do you have all the pieces? Check them off your be mentioned in the section on installing a topmast.)
lists, port and starboard, forward and aft. All turn- Keep any tools you’re not wearing in your rigging
buckles, toggles, pins, shackles, lanyards, pieces of bucket or toolbox. If you happen to have a fly-fish-
standing rigging, and spools of cordage for running ing vest, dump all the lures and weights out of it,

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