Page 280 - Brion Toss - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 280

tackle to keep things from fouling; and go to the  board. With a copy of the standing rigging list to
             next line.                                  hand, begin attaching the pieces starting with the
                Cut gantlines, topsail, and staysail halyards to  lowers and working up, checking each piece off
             the get-someone-out-of-the-water rule.      the list as you go. If the mast is tanged, see that
                If you’re rigging with manila, which shrinks  the clevis pins fit cleanly and are the right length.
             when wet, allow enough length for shrinkage. Lines  If it’s a spliced rig, be sure the thimbles are set well
             that see an extraordinary amount of chafe, such as  down on the pin or shackle, with no foul leads. Seize
             the foresail vang on some gaff schooners, can do  and cotter as you go. With a soft-eye rig, remem-
             with extra length for shortening up. If a line leads  ber to put on the starboard eye of any pair first and
             to the cockpit or to the end of the bowsprit, pace off  to seat and lead the eyes as well as you can on the
             the distance away from the mast to get the required  ground. Attach any spreaders or struts and seize-in
             length. On a topping lift for a 14-foot boom, for  their wires, lightly, so you can adjust angle and
             instance, reeve the end through the block on the  tension later. Uncoil the pieces, either after they’re
             mast and walk with the end to a point 14 feet out  all attached or as you go. Pull them out so they’re
             from the gooseneck or boom saddle. Lead the stand-  not sagging too much, and lash them to the mast
             ing part to its belay point and cut.        at gooseneck height. See that all pieces will lead
                With any type of rig, keep leads from fouling  fair; it’s easy, for example, to thread a backstay or
             with other pieces of running rigging. See that the  a halyard between an upper shroud and a spreader,
             right-diameter rope gets into the right blocks. Leave  necessitating a trip aloft to clear it before it can be
             the sheets and other low lines until the stepping is  set up. Is everything checked off? Good. Examine all
             done. When everything else is rove, it’s time to splice  attachments once more, and remove the tags.
             or whip all ends. Because this is so time-consuming,   You’re nearly ready for the pick now, but before
             it’s best done before the launching. Splicing parties  everyone gets geared up, take note of the wind: More
             are great places to teach and learn different tech-  than 10 to 15 knots of it can make a mast very diffi-
             niques, to socialize, and to become familiar with the  cult to handle in transit. If it’s blowing, wait.
             gear. Unfortunately, most mast dressings seem to
             take place with the crane operator fuming at you, the    STEPPING THE
             tide cresting, and an expectant crowd looking over   KEEL-STEPPED MAST
             your shoulder. And no matter how fast you splice or
             whip, to others you will look slow and contemplative.  For anything bigger than a Whitehall, use hoisting
             So if time is short, have good help on hand, assign  gear to step the mast. A raising-of-the-flag-at-Iwo-
             them specific tasks, and keep them out of each oth-  Jima routine is dramatic and emotionally satisfying
             er’s way. The priority is lines that dead-end aloft. If  when it works, but presents too many opportunities
             time is very short, just do the ends you won’t be able  for things to go wrong (picture the butt skidding
             to reach from deck. If there’s no time, reconcile your-  across your pristine foredeck, or the mast falling
             self to the prospect of some time in the bosun’s chair.  onto hapless guests), and in any event is always
                With a lashing or lashings, make the running rig  harder than letting pulleys do the work.
             off to the mast.                                The size of the mast and the availability of
                                                         equipment and personnel will determine the exact
             Standing Rigging                            form and size of the gear you use. Block and tackle
             The standing rigging goes on second because it has  of three to seven parts can be hung from beams,
             to come loose first, to belay the mast before the  yards, bridges, docks, etc. Given strong attachment
             crane lets go.                              and tailing points, you can pick all but the largest
                Lay the standing-rigging coils on the ground at  masts without a crane. On the other hand, this sys-
             appropriate points along the mast, port and star-  tem only works if the boat is directly under the gear

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