Page 278 - Brion Toss - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 278

Rigging and Tuning for
                     Detachable Forestay and
                        Running Backstays
               The cutter is a versatile rig, but in light airs, when
               you want to fly a big drifter, the forestay can be a
               serious impediment to tacking. It makes sense to
               be able to move the forestay out of the way when
               the wind is light, and secure it aft (made off to a
               chainplate with a bungee cord is ideal). Racers
               detach and reattach forestays and babystays fre-
               quently, using a compound lever quick-release
               device. These are efficient but clunky, prohibitively
               expensive, and the mechanism doesn’t tension the
               stay much. A positive-lock Fas-pin, the kind with
               a pushbutton and lanyard ring, is much preferable
               for cruisers. You loosen the turnbuckle, pull the
               pin, and you’re clear. Takes a little longer, but it
               saves a lot. Johnson Handy-Lock turnbuckles are
               ideal for this application, since they are secured
               with fold-down handles instead of cotter pins.
                  When the breeze comes up or you begin hitting
               chop, reattaching the forestay helps stabilize the
               mast. And, of course, the forestaysail can then
               be used in concert with the jib. In medium airs,
               tighten the forestay only moderately; too much
               tension, and you’ll slack the jib and flatten the
               forestaysail and main excessively. If breeze or chop
               builds more, it’s time to set up the running back-
               stays. These further stabilize the mast and tension
               the forestay, resulting in the flat forestaysail you
               want in heavy weather. At the same time you can
               tighten the backstay, to flatten the jib.



             and fill it with all the small items and tools that
             would otherwise go to the bottom of your rigging
             bucket. Sharpen your knife.
                Go over hoist signals (Figure 7-1) with the crane
             operator or, if you’re using a block and tackle, with
             the person tailing the fall. Some people use different
             signals than the ones shown; make sure you’re in
             agreement.
                Whenever possible, put all the rigging on the
             mast now. First get everything over by the boat,
             and put the mast on sawhorses or oil drums. Bits


             Figure 7-1A-D. Hoist signals. (A) Raise boom.
             (B) Lower boom. (C) Lower boom slowly. (Palm
             facing any signal qualifies it as “slowly.”) (D) Slew
             (travel) boom.


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