Page 353 - Chinese Porcelain Vol I, Galland
P. 353

PAINTED IN COLOURS OVER THE GLAZE.                  205

        the new moon when  only  a  clay  or two old, or to the  yonng
        leaflet of the willow.  Pink and  green,  two colours often worn
        by women, are confined  exclusively  to them, and never seen
        on men."        does not hold      in
                  (This              good    porcelain, where, of
                 the artists have often to clothe their male  in
        necessity,                                     figures
        these  colours.)  "The  ordinary  dress  is a  large-sleeved  robe
        of silk, or of cotton  among  the  poorer sort, over a  long garment,
        sometimes of a  pink  colour  ; under which are loose trousers,
                                             above the small foot
        which are fastened round the ankle, just
        and  tight  shoe. A  proverbial expression among  the Chinese,
                                       '      robes to hide
        for the concealment of defects,  is, Long          large
        feet.'  Notwithstanding this, the Tartar women, or their lords,
        have had the  good  sense  to  preserve  the ladies' feet of the
        natural size.  In other  respects, however, they  dress  nearly  as
       the Chinese, and  paint  their faces white and red in the same
        style.
           "
            The  ordinary  dress of men  among  the  labouring  classes is
        extremely  well-snited to  give  full  play  to the  body.  It consists
        in summer of  only  a  pair  of loose cotton trousers tied round the
        middle, and a shirt or smock, equally loose, hanging  over it.  In
        very  hot weather the smock is thrown off  altogether,  and  only
        the trousers retained.  They  defend the head from the sun  by
        a     broad                hat of bamboo
         very      umbrella-shaped               slips interwoven,
        which in winter  is  exchanged  for a  felt  cap  ;  and in  rainy
        weather  they  have cloaks of a  species  of  flags  or reeds, from
        which the water runs as from a
                                    pent-house.
           "  A            of the         wear no shoes, but some
               large portion     peasantry
                                 those who
        are furnished, particularly        carry heavy burthens,
        with sandals of straw to    the feet.
                             protect
           "
            It  is fashionable, in both men and women, to allow the
        nails of the left hand to  grow  to an inordinate  length,  until
        they  assume an  appearance very  like the claws of the  brady-
             The brittleness of the nail
        pus.                           rendering  it liable to break,
        they  have been known sometimes to  protect it, when  very long,
        by  means of thin  slips  of bamboo.
           "
            There are two lines of the    house of China.
                                   imperial               Every-
              about their dress and                   to minute
        thing                      equipage  is  subject
        regulation.  Some are decorated with the  peacock's  feather,
        and others allowed the       of the      sedan.
                             privilege     green
           "
             The colour of         is white and dull
                          mourning                  grey,  or ash,
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