Page 354 - Chinese Porcelain Vol I, Galland
P. 354

2o6            CHINESE PORCELAIN.

        with round buttons of        or      in lieu of    ones
                             crystals   glass,         gilt     ;
       the ornamental ball          rank  is taken from the   as
                           denoting                       cap,
       well as the tuft of crimson silk.  As the Chinese shave their
       heads, the  neglect  and  desolation of  mourning  is indicated
                  the hair        for the same  reason  that some
       by letting          grow  ;
       nations, who wore their  long hair, have shaved it  during  that
       period.
           "
            On the death of the         the same observations are
                                emperor,
       kept, by  his hundreds of millions of  subjects,  as on the death of
       the        of each individual.  The whole      remains un-
           parent                              empire
       shaven for the     of one hundred      Avhile the      of
                     space               days,          period
       mourning apparel  lasts  longer,  and all the officers of Govern-
       ment take the ball and crimson silk from their  caps.
           "
            The mutilation of the women's feet extends lower down in
       the scale of  society  than  might  have been  expected  from  its
       disabling  effect  upon  those who have to labour for their sub-
       sistence."
           Although  Sir John Davis does not mention the fact, it  is
       well to note that in both China and       it is the custom
                                           Japan
       to shave the heads of  young children, leaving  a tuft above one
       or each ear in the case of    and on the    of the head in
                               girls,           top
       the case of  boys.
           These           are of interest in         the
                 particulars                examining     figures
       on mandarin                 us  to much that otherwise
                    pieces, guiding                           it
       would be difficult to understand or account for.  By  their aid
       we can tell whether it is a summer or a winter scene from the
       men's        The ladies'     of             shows whether
             caps.             style  hair-dressing
       they  are married or  single,  etc.  It is seldom that the  painting-
       is so  carefully  done as to show the exact rank of the mandarin
       in  question,  but the  following,  taken from Mrs.  Bury  Palliser's
       English  edition of  Jacquemart  (p.  94), may  be  of  interest
                                                        "
       to the reader.  It  is similar to that  given  in the  Middle
                "
        Kingdom   but c*oes rather more into detail.
           "
            In  changing  the costume it was  necessary  to create emblems
        fitted  to  characterize  the  different  orders  of  functionaries.
                     —
       They  are these
           "                with a button of worked  ornamented
                       Cap,                      gold,
            First order :
       with a bead, and surmounted  by  an  oblong  button of  transparent
       ruby  red.  Violet coat, with a  square plaque  on the breast, and
       another on the back, in which  is embroidered the    of a
                                                      figure
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