Page 351 - Chinese Porcelain Vol I, Galland

PAINTED IN COLOURS OVER THE GLAZE. 203

"
In summer the nether garment is loose, and not unlike
ancient Dutch breeches ; but in winter an indescribable pair of
tight leggings are drawn on separately over all, and fastened
up to the sides of the person, leaving the voluminous article of
dress above mentioned to hang out behind in a manner that is
anything but pleasant. Stockings of cotton or silk, wove and
not knit, are worn all who can afford them
by ; and in winter
persons of a certain rank wear boots of cloth, satin, or velvet,
with the usual thick white sole, which is kept clean by whiting
instead of The thick soles of their boots and shoes,
blacking.
in all arose from the circumstances of their not
probability,
such a substance as well-tanned leather, a thinner
possessing
of which is sufficient to exclude the wet.
layer
"
The Chinese dresses of ceremony are exceedingly rich and
handsome. The colour of the is
spencer usually dark blue,
or purple, and the long dress beneath is commonly of some
and hue. On state occasions this last is
lighter gayer very
splendidly embroidered with dragons or other devices, in silk
and gold, and the cost amounts frequently to large sums.
They spread neither sheets upon their beds nor cloths on their
tables. The Chinese, perhaps, may be said to possess an ad-
in the absence of those and
vantage perpetual frequently
absurd mutations of fashion in Europe. The only setter of
fashions is the board of rites and ceremonies at Pekin, and to
depart materially from their ordinances would be considered as
something worse than mere mauvais ton. It is their business
not to the forms on all occasions of or
only prescribe worship
of but the costumes which are to be worn must be
ceremony,
in strict to rule. The dresses of all ranks and
conformity
orders, and of both sexes about the imperial palace, are speci-
fied, as regards cut, colour, and material, with as much pre-
cision as in any court of Europe. From the Tartar religion of
the lamas, the of one hundred and beads has
rosary eight
become of the ceremonial dress attached to the nine
part
grades of official rank. It consists of a necklace of stones and
coral nearly as large as a pigeon's egg, descending to the
waist, and distinguished by various beads, according to the
quality of the wearer. There is a smaller rosary of only
eighteen beads of inferior size, with which the bonzes count
their prayers and ejaculations, exactly as in the Roman