Page 350 - Chinese Porcelain Vol I, Galland

202 CHINESE PORCELAIN.

by the same ball as in the other case, denoting the rank of
the wearer ; and from the point of insertion descends a bunch
of fine crimson silk, just covering the dome. On the com-
mencement of the cold or hot weather, the first person in each
as the or assumes his winter or
province, Tsoong-to, viceroy,
summer cap. The circumstance is notified in the official gazette,
or court circular, and this is the signal for every man under
his government to make the same change. In the embassy of
1816, the imperial legate, who conducted the mission down to
Canton, for the time in rank to the in
being superior viceroy,
this manner on his winter and the to
put cap, gave example
the province through which he was passing.
"
Within-doors wear in cold weather a small
they usually
either or ornamented.
skull-cap, plain
" The summer garment of the better classes is a long loose
gown of light silk, gauze, or linen, hanging free at ordinary
times, but on occasions of dress gathered in round the middle
by a girdle of strong wrought silk, which is fastened in front
by a clasp of agate, or of the jade, which the Chinese called yu.
In an oppressive climate, when the thermometer is at 80° or
90°, there is much ease and comfort in the loose sleeves, and
the freedom from restraint about the neck, by which this dress
is To the are fastened the various articles
distinguished. girdle
noticed by Dr. Abel, as the fan-case, tobacco-pouch, flint and
steel, and sometimes a sheath with a small knife and pair of
chopsticks. They are very proud of displaying a watch, which is
inserted in an embroidered silk case or The winter dress,
pouch.
being nearly as loose as that of summer, is less calculated to pro-
mote warmth and comfort than the European costume, and at the
same time more unfavourable to bodily activity and exertion.
Over a long dress of silk or crape, which reaches to the ankles,
they wear a large-sleeved spencer, called ma-hiva, or riding-
coat, which does not descend below the hips. This is often
entirely of fur, but sometimes of silk or broad-cloth, lined with
skins. The neck, which in summer is left quite bare, is pro-
tected in winter with a narrow collar of silk or fur. Their loose
dresses fold over to the are
always right breast, where they
fastened from to
top bottom, at intervals of a few inches,
by gilt or crystal buttons (the latter in mourning) with
loops.