Page 169 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Munter friction hitch

Since this climber’s knot was first introduced in 1974 at a meeting of the Union Internationale

des Associations d’Alpinisme, in Italy, it is also sometimes referred to as the Italian hitch. In
kernmantel (core-and-sheath) rope it is widely used to absorb energy through friction, whether
it is being used for lowering a load under control or checking an unwanted fall.

Start by forming an uncompleted overhand knot (1), then enclose the two knot parts as illustrated

within a gated carabiner (2). If the strain is relaxed from one part of the rope and imposed on the
other—for example, taking in slack, as opposed to gradually letting it out—it is acceptable for the
knot to slip around into a reverse layout (3).