Page 45 - HAIR COLOUR

pigments) and Phaeomelanin (red & yellow pigments) from the hair to
leave it completely without pigments so as to reflect as white.

When removing pigments, it is known, even seen through the bleaching
process that pigments vary in removal times, all the blue pigments
remove first leaving the hair a reddish orange in colour, next all the red
pigments are removed leaving the hair very yellow, the yellow pigments
always take longer to remove.

Because of the smaller percentage of yellow pigments in the base colour
off/black, they also remove reasonably quickly, leaving the hair without
any pigment at all which will reflect white.

With the result of your stand test and the information collected above,
also your professional knowledge of pigments and what is required to
achieve the target colour (white blonde) your consultation should be as
follows. “You are about to undergo a radical colour change that may take
a couple of days for you to get used to. It may also be necessary to
change your hair style as it is rare that the same look but just blonde
instead of off/black works.

The strand test has shown that your hair is strong enough to undergo the
process and there is absolutely no hair dye on your hair at present so it
should be fairly straight forward.

Because of Keratinisation (explain as much about keratinisation as
you think relevant without confusing the client.) it will be necessary to
bleach the middle lengths and ends first, that said the process will go
through some scary moments and you should be aware of these, after ten

minutes the blue pigments will be gone leaving your hair looking orange,
sometime later all the red pigments will be gone leaving your hair looking
really yellow, quite some time later all the yellow pigments will have
gone.

When the middle lengths and ends are as pale as they will go, we will
apply fresh bleach to the roots, comb though and leave until the roots are
the same colour as the middle lengths and ends. Finally, your hair is
white blonde. Now that you fully understand the process would you like
to proceed with going blonde?” Now if your client chooses to continue,
she will not be alarmed at any stage, because her hair is changing colour
just as you said it would and her confidence in your knowing exactly
what is happening is greatly increased. (Fig 36.) (fig 37.) (fig 38.)
(fig 39.) (fig 40.)

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