Page 46 - HAIR COLOUR

In the case of the client with natural blonde hair you would think that this
would be much easier as it is five shades lighter to begin with, but what
does it mean to be five shades lighter? It means less blue and red
pigments and more yellow pigments, and you will remember that blue
and red pigments remove very easily. Yellow pigments are the hardest to
remove. By this logic it is harder to achieve white blonde on natural
blonde hair than it is on off/black hair. Your strand test should confirm
no matter how long you leave the bleach on, or even if you carry out a
second application the most you can achieve is very, very pale yellow.
Now this is very important Never promise what is not possible.

This is how your consultation should go:
“The strand test confirms what I first thought when I saw your hair, that
there is so much yellow pigment in your hair it might not be possible to
achieve white blonde just from bleaching alone. Because of
Keratinisation (Explain as much about keratinisation as you think
relevant without confusing the client.) it will be necessary to bleach the
middle lengths and ends first, shortly after applying the bleach, the hair
will turn very yellow and will take some time for the hair to become a
very, very pale yellow. Once the middle lengths and ends are as pale as
they will go, we will apply fresh bleach to the roots, comb though and
leave until the roots are the same colour as the middle lengths and ends.
So, after the bleach has been washed out it will be necessary to apply a

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