Page 150 - Des Pawson "Pocket Guide to Knots & Splices"

Prusik Knot

In 1931 Dr. Carl Prusik came up with

this method of making a series of
loops that would slide up and down a

heavier climbing rope, yet lock when
strain is put on the loop. Loosen the
sling slightly and it can be moved up

or down again as required.
For this to work properly,

attention to detail is important. The
sling should be made from rope at
least half the size of the main rope.

The ends of the sling should be tied
neatly, perhaps with a double

fisherman’s knot which should never
be in the turns round the main rope.
In wet, icy, or slippery conditions an

extra couple of turns could be made
round the main rope. Check that it

holds properly before using it in
earnest.
To the climber the term “to
Pocket Guide to Knots & Splices
prusik” has come to mean to use a
number of sliding/locking loops to

ascend or descend a heavier rope
using the Prusik knot or one of its

many variations.

1 Lay a fixed loop or strop of smaller

diameter rope over the main rope.
2 Bring the right-hand part of the loop
round the main rope and through the part

of the loop formed to the left.

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