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30  AN EXILE OF THE MIND     MELTING TONES OF THE PACIFIC                       31


 prow. A grim figurehead to guide his  by  boys.  Martha,  played  by  a   into the  school play, told blood-  map of a declining Empire on his
 charges in the sea of mashed potatoes,  beautiful  effeminate  boy  with  a   curdling  stories  of  his  wartime  classroom wall  where  I planned
 overcooked vegies and fatty meat.   ginger  wig  and  flowered  frock,  was   experiences to a rapt audience. This  my globe-trot  and found  in the
 And yet a star did glitter amidst  teased unmercifully and became   sensitive student feigned trance-like  antipodes the island nation of New
 these  treadmill  years.  Mrs  Cratchit  very popular with other exquisite   attention, hands either side of my  Zealand just  visible in the  blue
 emerged  unflappable  in  the  annual  boys. While I earned the nickname,   head  with  a  finger  secretly  plugged  expanse of the South Pacific.
 school play,  A  Christmas  Carol  ‘Scratchit Cratchit’.  into each ear to muffle the horrors.   My  dream  of  travelling  to  a
 by Charles Dickens. This was my   School  walls  provided enticing   The geography teacher whittled  Gauguin  paradise  of  grass-skirted
 launch into future stardom. Michael  blank canvasses to paint ambitious   away  the  school  hours drawing  Polynesians  and  cascading  water-
 Parkinson  of  TV  fame  also  played  murals.  Nudity  not  permitted.  My   elaborate pictures in chalks of many  falls  was becoming a reality. Now
 this role at his own school a few years  modest talent was unveiled to avoid a   colours, remarkable images  of  all  made  possible  with  odd  jobs and
 before. And look where that got him.  trampling in freezing mud by studded   things  communist. Steam  trains  pounds  cadged  from relatives. To
 Boys’ schools tend to have a  boots chasing a ball and my shins.   puffed the length of the blackboard,  sail  off  to  the  land  Down Under
 serious lack of female talent with   Our English master, my favourite   sporting hammers and sickles.   where the air was pure and the sun
 female parts performed reluctantly  teacher who had press-ganged me   I scrutinised a large red-blobbed  shone long enough to tan the body.
                                                   My departure from the auld sod
                                                was planned in secret. I was ready
                                                to set out into the new world bliss-
                                                fully unaware that dangerous things
                                                could happen. A coddiwomple urge
                                                to travel  the  globe  when  stepping
                                                out into your own suburb wasn’t
                                                safe. These were the days of stove-
                                                piped  Teddy Boys,  leather-clad
                                                Rockers, and the  National Service.
                                                If I thought  travel was dangerous,
                                                then routine was even worse.
                                                   A mixture of anxiety and antic-
                                                ipation welled  up as I  clambered
                                                up the gangway of the  Rangitane
                                                lugging a battered suitcase, a record
                                                player and a shotgun slung over my


                                                 A 1950s postcard of Papeete.
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