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32                      AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                   MELTING TONES OF THE PACIFIC                      33


























                    The stunning island of Moorea in French Polynesia.                                   Dutch-flavoured Curaçao was our  the stunning island of Moorea.
                                                                                                      first port of call, ratty and unkempt   A long whistle  blast  from the
          shoulder, thinly disguised in a leath-  decks deep within the ship’s bowels.                under  the  Caribbean sun. At  the  Rangitane below  was  a reminder
          er scabbard. I was about to embark  The voyage to  Godzone  took  five                      open market I focused through the  for those ashore to hurry back to the
          on a venture of endless mysteries.   weeks  across the  mercurial oceans                    lens of my camera to see a chopper-  ship before she sailed.
            My parents, dazed by the speed of  of the Atlantic and Pacific.                           wielding  woman lunging towards         Long black hair whipped my face
          events, realized that they may never    In the dining room a long table                     me. Not  having the  presence  of    as we dashed down the hill and I
          see  their eldest  again.  Two weeks  groaned under an orgy of food. In its                 mind to take the  photograph  I         held tightly the slender waist of
          earlier,  I  casually told them I  was  centre a dolphin leapt out of a large               turned and ran, not sure of her               a  Tahitian goddess on a
          off  to  the  Land  of  the  Long  White  ice block and melted to the size of               intentions.                                   speeding motor scooter.
          Cloud. My mother asked which pub  a mackerel by second sitting. On an                          We were  able  to  step                      Passengers  cheered  and
          was that then?                       earlier voyage I would have sailed in                  on land again in  Tahiti.  An                  wolf-whistled  from the
            This was the era of ocean liners  steerage on a simpler menu of salted                    island with  a French                         ship’s decks above. And
          and long passages  plying  the  seas  meat and ship’s biscuits.                             flavour, where I doggedly                      with a cheery wave and a
          between  England  and countries         The airless cabin was shared with                   set off to walk up a steep                     flash  of  teeth,  my  friend’s
          Down  Under. Romance, perilous  three other young men already plot-                         hill in the midday swelter.               lovely daughter scooted back
          adventure and intrigue lurked in  ting mischief to relieve their boredom                       Out of the blue a large beaming  home.  From  their  hilltop  home  her
          every exotic  foreign port. Cheaper  on the long journey. Piercing shrieks                  Tahitian  materialized  with  a cold  family could be seen waving madly as
          cabins were  designed  to  maximize  were heard early one morning. The                      beer. Rivulets of condensation  the ship headed out to sea.
          passenger  numbers rather than  ‘Ladies’ and ‘Men’s’ toilet signs had                       sparkled on the bottle  as I  gulped    There were many girls riding
          comfort. There were no portholes to  been switched during the night and                     it down and a marvellous day was  scooters in  Papeete. This was the
          view bumpy waves at sea level from  the toilets suddenly became unisex.                     spent  on his  veranda overlooking  South Seas I had dreamt about. And
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