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32  AN EXILE OF THE MIND     MELTING TONES OF THE PACIFIC                       33


























 The stunning island of Moorea in French Polynesia.  Dutch-flavoured Curaçao was our  the stunning island of Moorea.
           first port of call, ratty and unkempt   A long whistle  blast  from the
 shoulder, thinly disguised in a leath-  decks deep within the ship’s bowels.   under  the  Caribbean sun. At  the  Rangitane below  was  a reminder
 er scabbard. I was about to embark  The voyage to  Godzone  took  five   open market I focused through the  for those ashore to hurry back to the
 on a venture of endless mysteries.  weeks  across the  mercurial oceans   lens of my camera to see a chopper-  ship before she sailed.
 My parents, dazed by the speed of  of the Atlantic and Pacific.   wielding  woman lunging towards   Long black hair whipped my face
 events, realized that they may never   In the dining room a long table   me. Not  having the  presence  of   as we dashed down the hill and I
 see  their eldest  again.  Two weeks  groaned under an orgy of food. In its   mind to take the  photograph  I   held tightly the slender waist of
 earlier,  I  casually told them I  was  centre a dolphin leapt out of a large   turned and ran, not sure of her   a  Tahitian goddess on a
 off  to  the  Land  of  the  Long  White  ice block and melted to the size of   intentions.   speeding motor scooter.
 Cloud. My mother asked which pub  a mackerel by second sitting. On an   We were  able  to  step   Passengers  cheered  and
 was that then?   earlier voyage I would have sailed in   on land again in  Tahiti.  An   wolf-whistled  from the
 This was the era of ocean liners  steerage on a simpler menu of salted   island with  a French   ship’s decks above. And
 and long passages  plying  the  seas  meat and ship’s biscuits.   flavour, where I doggedly   with a cheery wave and a
 between  England  and countries   The airless cabin was shared with   set off to walk up a steep   flash  of  teeth,  my  friend’s
 Down  Under. Romance, perilous  three other young men already plot-  hill in the midday swelter.   lovely daughter scooted back
 adventure and intrigue lurked in  ting mischief to relieve their boredom   Out of the blue a large beaming  home.  From  their  hilltop  home  her
 every exotic  foreign port. Cheaper  on the long journey. Piercing shrieks   Tahitian  materialized  with  a cold  family could be seen waving madly as
 cabins were  designed  to  maximize  were heard early one morning. The   beer. Rivulets of condensation  the ship headed out to sea.
 passenger  numbers rather than  ‘Ladies’ and ‘Men’s’ toilet signs had   sparkled on the bottle  as I  gulped   There were many girls riding
 comfort. There were no portholes to  been switched during the night and   it down and a marvellous day was  scooters in  Papeete. This was the
 view bumpy waves at sea level from  the toilets suddenly became unisex.   spent  on his  veranda overlooking  South Seas I had dreamt about. And
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