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34  AN EXILE OF THE MIND     MELTING TONES OF THE PACIFIC                       35


                                                was I enjoying New Zealand? A friend
                                                from the ship, doggedly loyal despite
                                                respiratory problems most probably
                                                caused by my player, headed for
                                                New Plymouth. And having nothing
                                                better to do, I tagged along.
                                                   I  was fascinated  by the Fuji
                                                lookalike volcano of Mount Egmont,
                                                thrusting through the earth’s crust
                                                in  a  forested circle of rimu and
                                                flowering  rata.  A  mountain  that
                                                Perceval, the  Earl of Egmont, had
                                                never clapped  eyes  on.  Perceval
                                                was  First Lord  of the Admiralty
                                                in  Captain Cook’s  time. A grateful
                                                promotion from his last job as Lord
                                                of  the  Bedchamber to  the  Prince
                                                of  Wales.  The  mountain is  now
                                                known by its original name, Mount
                                                Taranaki.
 The mountain seen from south Taranaki.  I was confined to a darkened cabin   The  volcano, ‘dormant’  ac-
           with  sunstroke.  To  emerge  deck-  cording to tourism guides, loomed
 not a single grass skirt to be seen.   their lounges close  by, ran  about   wards several days  later with  two  menacingly close to town. I would lie
 Gathering around my record  the deck shouting  ‘FIRE’.  Tropical   white orbs staring out of a crimson  awake at night with uneasy thoughts
 player  on deck, my  shipboard  weather  and the  wrong voltage   face where my sunglasses had been.  of its looming proximity. Reassured
 friends  sat  in delight  to  the  quickly terminated  my brief  spell   The shotgun caused  quite  a  to learn that its pressure cooker of
 soundtrack of  South  Pacific. The  of  shipboard  popularity.  I had   consternation with customs in  molten rock, threatening an earth-
 dulcet  tones  of  Nellie  Forbush  slid  thoughts of being put ashore on the   Wellington. Checking nervously  shake from below,  was not quite
 languidly to a baritone and then to  nearest island with my shotgun and   the breech for buckshot, they let it  as close as Mount Vesuvius was to
 a bass  as the  vinyl record draped  a smouldering player.   through  with  the  suggestion  that  Pompeii.
 slowly over the machine’s contours   During this  distressing  episode   I  use  it to help  reduce  the surplus   More  surprising  than  a  volcano
 to become a frilly hat. My audience  the  sun blazing white  had beaten   population of rabbits.   on the doorstep was a visit to the
 coughed and spluttered in the acrid  down on a head blessed only by the   Stepping out onto the streets of  local pub to celebrate our arrival.
 smoke. Passengers, comatose  in  anaemic rays of an English sun and   Wellington, a passerby asked how  To find its doors closed at six o’clock
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